Lisbon on a bargain budget

AS JANELAS VERDES (00 351 21 396 81 43), Rua As Janelas Verdes, 47, Lapa; doubles E123 B&B.

Next door to the National Ancient Art Museum on the cobbled street of the same name, As Janelas Verdes is an elegant late 18th century mansion once home to famed Portuguese writer Eca de Queiros.

His memory lives on in the paintings and books dotted around the hotel, including the soothingly romantic reception room - sage green walls, drapes and a handsome upright piano - leading the way to the hotel's glory: a gorgeous, ivy-clad, walled private garden with a tiled water feature, glasstopped, wrought-iron tables and large cream calico umbrellas which provide respite from the hot Lisbon sun.

The perfect place for breakfast or an evening drink. There is a lift, but the winding stairs leading right up to the third floor are worth taking for the framed portraits en route. Rooms are large and bright with marble and tiled bathrooms and some have views of the massive concrete Cristo Rei monument (110m high) overlooking the banks of the river Tagus.

YORK HOUSE (21 396 2345), Rua As Janelas Verdes, 32, Lapa; doubles E184 B&B.

On the same street as As Janelas Verdes, hidden away behind an enchanting, pinkpainted, walled garden at the top of a flight of steps, York House hotel is built around a courtyard with flowers, trees and plants.

With a stronger literary connection than its neighbour - John le Carrè and Graham Greene both came here to write - this was a Carmelite convent until 1834 (clues are found in the stone corridors and religious artefacts throughout), it is now an amazing hotel.

The overall effect of polished wood floors, tiles and period furniture ( much brought over by two Yorkshire women who started it) belies vastly different rooms, which range from the modern "Clerkenwell bachelor loft feel" - stark white walls, black wood floor-to-ceiling mirror and Japan- ese-style bathroom - to a suite with a strangely rustic feel brought on by the wrought-iron fourposter complete with period bureau and old flagstones.

Lovers of literature should visit the Cimiteiro Ingles, a 10-minute uphill walk away on Rua Sao Jorge, a tranquil resting place for many expats, including novelist Henry Fielding, who died in Lisbon in 1754.

HOTEL BRITANIA (21 315 5016), Rua Rodrigues Sampaio, 17; doubles from E100 B&B.

In a quiet street, just off the Avenida da Liberdade, Lisbon's most famous avenue, the Britania is practically a shrine to Art-Deco elegance, so fans of that style will be in heaven.

Originally designed by Portuguese architect Cassiano Branco, the hotel was fully restored five years ago. The entrance is beautiful, with cream marble floors and pillars and a fantastic glassand-chrome lift going up through the heart of the building.

Stylish rooms are more like apartments, with warm orange and green fabrics and carpets, and the original white marble and tiled period bathrooms.

Through the shiny parquetfloored bar you will find a small slice of how life in the hotel once was - the original tiny barbershop is preserved intact with the chair, glass shelves with silvertopped bottles and brushes.

Stroll down the Avenida da Liberdade, lined with designer shops such as Loewe and Ermenegildo Zegna, and up to the vast French-style gardens of Parque Eduardo VII for wonderful views down to the sea from the highest point.

HOTEL DA TORRE (21 361 6940), Rua dos Jeronimos, 8, Belem; doubles from E77 B&B.

Given its impressive vast marble and stone lobby complete with low, cream sofas and plants, the Hotel da Torre could almost be in competition with the recently restored Mosteiro dos Jeronimos opposite, itself an elaborate late Gothic mass of floral and sea motifs with world-heritage status, making this perfect for architecture buffs. The hotel's restaurant-is sleek and stylish, with almost floor-to-ceiling windows looking out over Rua dos Jeronimos, guavacoloured walls, and a pair of silver sculptures which closer inspection reveals are just pieces of airconditioning tubing.

The bar has a casino feel with black leather seats, chrome pillars, low-black varnished tables and curved bar.

The older rooms are being renovated and feature loud bedspreads, marble fireplaces and pretty blue-andwhite tiled bathrooms. The newer ones are more minimalist with caramel-coloured carpets, cream everything and Brazilian oak furniture.

Down on the waterfront, fantastic views are to be had from the amazing example of Manueline architecture that is the Torre de Belem with Moorish domes and Renaissance loggias. After this you'll deserve a Pastei de Belem (a neighbourhood version of Portugal's famous pastei de nata, a custard tart with flaky pastry) from possibly Lisbon's best pasteleria, the Antiga Confeitaria de Belem on Rua de Belem.

HOTEL ANJO AZUL (21 347 8069), Rua Luz Soriano, 75, Bairro Alto; doubles from E50 room only.

Rightfully claiming to be Lisbon's first gay pens"o when it first opened in 2000, the Anjo Azul - on the edge of the lively Barrio Alto, the heart of the capital's nightlife (gay and straight) - is an attractively refurbished blue-tiled 19th century building. Its 20 rooms (the hotel is always full, so book ahead) are simply decorated: white walls and bedspreads and light-coloured IKEA-style furniture, with touches of individuality from a colourful Keith Haring print in one room to a photo of a muscled hunk in another. Clientele is mixed.

Check out the Espanol Tapas-Bar on Calcada Nova de Sao Francisco, 10 minutes' walk away, for excellent tapas; or, closer to home, the Bota Alta, on nearby Travessa da Queimada (translates as "high boot") has the feel of the Mediterranean about it with sea-blue walls, and is always packed with Portuguese diners tucking into fresh fish - swordfish or braised cod - with excellent chips.

Jo Fernandez flew to Lisbon with TAP (0845 6010932) returns from £129. Lisbon Tourist Board (00351 2103 12700; www.atl-turismolisboa.pt).