June Sarpong falls for the flavours of South America at Kensington’s new Zuaya

As my reservation at Kensington’s just-opened, much-talked-about new South American fusion spot neared, I thought about who to take with me.

I settled on my nephew Jaydon. Jaydon is nine years old, ran my logic, and nine-year-olds are difficult to impress. Particularly when they are Jaydon, who has a more sophisticated palate than most kids his age. Would Zuaya be up to this most difficult of tasks?

The early signs were good. First, I’d heard favourable things from people I trust. Second, the head chef, Francisco Lafee, is the former sous-chef at the ever-delicious Barrafina and an alumnus of one-time ‘World’s Best Restaurant’ El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain. Third, our little sojourn fell on a particularly lovely summer evening in the capital: the kind of swelteringly hot, Mediterranean-level night with which any Londoner who has stepped outside in the past few months will be (overly) familiar. Thankfully Zuaya has a simple outdoor courtyard area that comprises a cluster of six or so close tables on a cobbled path, just far enough from the hustle and bustle of Kensington High Street. We decided to dine al fresco.

Zuaya’s interior, however, is certainly worth a look, too: worth it for the black and white zig-zags that cover the floor area beside the bar and also for the fringed pendant lights that hang above the tables, but primarily for the lush greenery that covers the ceiling. In fact there is green everywhere. ‘Welcome to the jungle,’ a sign above the staircase to the basement dining space reads, not altogether inaccurately. Think west London fine dining with gilt accents, situated in an upturned tropical rainforest.

Now, I am a teetotaller and as such often find myself disappointed when presented with a drinks menu at a restaurant. Thus the extensive range of mocktails made for a welcome change. I opted for a Before the Sunrise: a refreshing sweet-sharp berry fusion that was just what I needed to combat London’s heatwave. Jaydon chose The Wayra, a coconut juice blend which he described as being like ‘drinking dessert’.

Food-wise, Latin and Mediterranean is the feel of Zuaya. By way of starters we selected a range of dishes with a Colombian and Peruvian influence that teetered on the boundary between savoury and sweet. The house ceviche was an elegant marriage of fragrance and tartness, light but satisfying at the same time (or ‘interesting because it’s tasty and tangy’, as Jaydon more succinctly put it). The corn cake had the texture of a crumble but with a much more gentle sweetness. The tomato salad also had a hint of citrus, which complemented the other dishes perfectly. The shredded lamb taco, though more subtle in flavour, was so succulent that it was gone in a couple of too-short mouthfuls, and left you wanting more.

Talking of wanting more, a main of pork belly felt a little ungenerous in terms of portion, particularly given its price tag. It was delicious, but lacked the depth of flavour of the starters. The baby chicken was both more substantial and more flavourful, and was perhaps the better choice of the two mains. Fried cassava with cheese dip was perfectly prepared — crispy and light without even a hint of oil or grease — while the quinoa was nicely judged and not too grainy.

Zuaya is definitely a spot for people who prefer a lighter, healthier evening meal as opposed to those who like to roll home with loosened belts and collapse into bed. But with that caveat, there is much to recommend here. Jaydon’s verdict was that he ‘would love to go again soon!’ If he’ll have me, I would be happy to come again with him.

Zuaya

Total: £187

35 Kensington High Street, W8. (020 3971 6277)