AMBIENCE The staff are generally covered in tattoos and rocking a hot grunge look. 'Most of us hang around on the metal scene so that's our style,' explains Sean Blake, a curly-moustached dandy in a low-cut V-neck revealing a densely inked torso. Even at 11am it could be evening in Spuntino, as the gently flickering industrial lantern lights cast a dusky hue across the restaurant's rough edges. 'Hey, sexy,' says Sean to Ahmed, a swarthy James Dean type in a white T-shirt with greased-back black hair and a tattooed neck. 'Yeah, there are a few straight guy bromances going on here,' Sean explains.
DRESS CODE 'It just so happens that most of our staff are tattooed and have piercings. It's not in the job description,' says Russell Norman. 'You can wear whatever to work, though. I'm still waiting for the right time to try out my African gown,' adds Sean.
THE RULES Every customer has to wait in line - even celebrities. And, says Sean, 'The customer is always right - unless they want a mojito. We never make mojitos, they're naff.'
INTERIOR DESIGN Russell, who was operations director of Caprice Holdings before he decided to go it alone in 2009 with Polpo, is behind the design. His concept was based on finding beauty in ugliness: 'Things are stripped back to their raw state,' he explains. 'So lightbulbs deliberately show the filament, the cutlery is something you might find in a prison canteen and the menus are printed on parcel paper.' The bar is pewter-topped, the walls are covered in Victorian glazed bricks and mosaics, and large rusted tin tiles salvaged from a New York warehouse clad the high ceiling.
AFTER HOURS Sean says: 'We'll have a beer and a bourbon after work then go for some drinks at El Camion around the corner with the Polpo kids. It always ends quite merrily as we have a whole night's worth of drinking to catch up on in just two hours - there's no booze on the job.'