Peak practice

Having never been to an Alpine resort in anything but snowy climes, I was anxious about the idea of heading to Austria without my ski boots and gloves.

But the Wilder Kaiser (wild emperor) region in the mountainous Tirol actually has plenty to offer summer holidaymakers, both in terms of activities and value for money.

Its verdant peaks and winding paths, just over an hour’s drive from the city of Innsbruck and 90 minutes from Munich, are renowned among hiking and biking enthusiasts, while the many mountain restaurants give plenty of opportunity to sit back, gulp down a beer and breathe in the refreshing mountain air.

I stayed in Söll, one of four villages in the region, and well positioned for excursions.

Day one began slowly, as I sat in the back of an old-school tractor with a small train of compartments — my transport to breakfast up the mountain. Gruberhof is a traditional, family-friendly restaurant with views as

natural as the food, with freshly hatched eggs coming from a nearby farm, jams and bread homemade and locally sourced cheese.

After fuelling myself slightly over enthusiastically, I returned down the mountain for my next adventure. Rather more active, though not excruciatingly so, the afternoon’s itinerary involved riding Austria’s newest sporting invention, the E-bike.

These hybrid-style bicycles, partly powered by a rechargeable battery and partly by the rider, match pedal rotation by 100 per cent or 150 per cent, depending on the setting.

This makes them family friendly since everybody can cycle together regardless of fitness levels or age. Even my guide, Rudi, had only used one once before but we were both pleasantly surprised; not only did we cover 30km in total, but still had enough energy to admire the scenery as we climbed up the mountain. The following day it was time for hiking, beginning in the neighbouring village of Ellmau. Peter, my guide, a hearty-looking blond with a larynx as strong as his frame, led the way. Every now and again he emitted a yodel, echoing all the way around the mountain and back. His best asset, however, was his pair of hip-flask hiking poles that stored schnapps inside.

An hour-and-a-half into our hike, he unscrewed the cap and offered me something to drink. Like magic mead — before I knew it we had arrived at our lunch stop, where we feasted on a delicious goulash soup.

Now all that remained was to scamper down the mountain once I’d decided between an afternoon’s climbing, golf, mountain biking or maybe just a sauna and another schnapps to rest my weary legs.