My Private Island: Jumby Bay

There are few people for whom the words "private island" don't evoke at least a fleeting quiver of excitement. In the old days, to be able to stay on one was the ultimate affirmation of affluence.

What makes Jumby Bay special is that it has the feel of a private island in the old school sense, because most of its accommodation is privately-owned, individually designed villas and estate houses, many with their own beaches, while the rest remain solely for the use of their owners. But then, it has 40 beautifully-designed hotel suites (28 of which are brand new) arranged along a stretch of white beach lapped by impossibly turquoise waters.

While these rooms don't come cheap, they do offer a slice of the action for a snip of the price of a villa rental.

First opened in 1983, Jumby Bay was more than ready for a facelift by 2008. For 18 months the resort closed for a giant overhaul of everything except for the island's original 1830s Estate House and it has just re-emerged better than ever, with its new ocean facing suites, two new pools, two new restaurants and for the first time — a spa.

The island is just big enough that it takes about an hour to walk around but small enough so that nothing takes too long to get to. Much of it has been left to grow wild and its car-free paths are ideal for both walking and cycling.

For an island this sleepy, there is plenty to see. On its northeastern tip, there's an archaeological site with floor prints dating back 7,000 years, the island's Pasture Bay Beach is a vital nesting site for the Hawksbill Sea
Turtle (from July through November) and twitchers will spot Blue Pelicans and White Egrets. All over the island wild sheep happily graze in the long grass. Early inhabitants included flint mining South American Indians and later, Spanish sheep farmers.

The suites, semi-detached villas in themselves, are cool and spacious with stone floors, sisal rugs and vaulted, whitewashed beamed ceilings. The centrepiece of each is an intricately-carved, colonial-feel four poster bed, shrouded in a mosquito net and dressed in white Italian linen.
Gloriously big bathrooms have in-and-outdoor showers and freestanding outdoor bathtubs.

With the beach just a short stroll away, one's main concern is deciding which sun lounger or hammock to choose. While attentive staff walk up and down to ensure you're never short of a bottle of icy cold water or better still, the wickedly alcoholic Jumby Bay Jamboree cocktail, I liked sitting near the Beach Bar, a simple open-sided shack right on the sand.

Since executive chef Juan Loza Pablo's arrival, meals have become a celebration of European-Mexican influenced dishes, cooked with the
finest, freshest local ingredients.

The beachfront Verandah & Kitchen is at the centre of the resort and its social hub. You can take three meals a day here but most people go here for breakfast, head to the laid-back bistro-style Pool Grille for lunch and then to the Estate House for fine dining.