Maldives... I owe you an apology - there's so much more to you

I arrived in The Maldives happy, but with all the enthusiasm of someone being forced to watch an ex’s vacation videos on repeat.

Its reputation precedes it: barefoot luxury and influencers shooting content by the pool. Been there, scrolled past that. I know... I’m weird.

Then something unexpected happened. Somewhere between the fifth foot massage and floating breakfasts, Maldives slipped me a secret note that said: "Psst... wanna see something different?" Mmm, okay.

Here's where I expected of this trip. Fly to the Maldives, confirm the water is indeed that blue, maybe see a turtle, home by Sunday. But JA Manafaru had other plans.

Let's address the elephant in the overwater villa: yes, the Maldives is where couples go to take those photos where she's in a flowing dress and he's... also there.

As a solo traveller, I've done my time as the awkward third wheel at romantic beach dinners.

I've perfected the art of looking deeply engrossed in my iPhone while couples feed each other sushi. I know the special hell of being surrounded by lovebirds when your most meaningful relationship is with the bartender.

JA Manafaru breaks this mould with the subtlety of a sledgehammer to a heart-shaped jacuzzi. From the moment I arrived — not to pitying glances but to genuine welcomes — I knew this was different.

Even the little gulf buggy that took me to my villa had my name on it, literally. Speaking of which... My overwater villa wasn't just a room, it was a declaration of “you are Beyoncé”.

Private infinity pool, glass floor revealing the aquatic show below, glass bottom shower where reef sharks would casually photobomb. Tip: shower in the dark and watch the rippling waves beneath your feet get hit by the moonlight. Sublime.

JA Manafaru makes its eco credentials its secret sauce. Their five-star worthy chicken coop (dubbed Cluckingham Palace because of course) supplies fresh eggs.

You should also take a tour led by Tomato, who knows the local landscape inside out.

He took me to the mushroom hut, which sounds like a trippy fairytale, but delivers gourmet fungi to the kitchen daily, which uses mostly produce grown on-site.

I’ve been to The Maldives before and while it’s pretty, the food, in my opinion wasn’t.

Not at JA, though. The food is insane. The homemade vegan Nutella (Cocotella) is so good it should come with a warning label and the curry chicken dish I made in a fun tutorial: Chef’s kiss. This isn't token environmentalism.

It's a fully realised philosophy that somehow makes your stay better rather than making you feel guilty. Even their spa treatments use coffee grounds from the restaurants – waste turned into luxury.

Highlights from my personal food diary: breakfasts that turned into two-hour affairs, because how do you choose between Maldivian tuna curry and homemade granola?

The teppanyaki at White Orchid where the chef juggled knives and shrimp with equal aplomb.

Discovering that "floating breakfast" isn't just an Instagram trend but an actual transcendent experience. The underground wine cellar dinner that felt like dining in a Bond villain's lair (in the best way).

The real luxury wasn't the infinity pools or the private decks – it was the permission to be fully present, to rediscover the joy of unplugging, to remember that travel should transform you, not just provide backdrop for your Instagram.

Plus, with smart planning (like JA's two-stop package that throws in Dubai nights with Maldives stays), you can see the Maldives on a shorter break without jet lag being a major issue.

Maldives? Turns out you're not just for honeymooners after all. The only question now is: when can I go back?

The details

Maldives fantasy? JA Manafaru £561 / $762 per night in low season, topping out at £863 / $1,172 when the weather and the prices are at their hottest.

When to go

November to April offers the clearest water and calm seas, perfect for snorkelling and diving.