Instant Istanbul

1/2

10 April 2012

Istanbul is having a charmed moment. While Western countries struggle to recover from debt, the Turkish economy is flourishing, with investment flooding into coastal developments, city hotels, restaurants and bars (Four Seasons, W Hotels and Park Hyatt all opened new properties in Istanbul last year).

It's outside the dreaded eurozone (although those who favour hip, new places over local, authentic ones probably won't see much benefit). It's gearing up for its stint as European Capital of Culture in 2010, which gives it a particular momentum.

And its youthful, dynamic population, while keen to embrace new trends from the West, seems equally mindful of its Eastern heritage.

The result is a heady mix of contemporary cool and ancient riches that makes it one of the world's most exciting cities.

There is no bad time to visit. A sprinkling of snow is a gorgeous backdrop to the treasures of the Old Town: the 1,500-year-old monument to Byzantine and Ottoman history that is the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, and sixth-century Basilica Cistern, with its 336 marble columns up-lit in red and amber.

But spring has the edge because it is then that the Bosphorus — the strait of water that links the Sea of Marmara to the Black Sea, Asia to Europe, and Istanbul's Byzantine, Roman and Ottoman past to its effervescent European present — comes into its own.

As do the ferries that cruise along it, the launches that take the well-heeled to nightclubs on it, and the hotels, restaurants and cafés that look over it.

From the glasswalled terrace of Mikla, a muchfêted bar and restaurant on the 18th f loor of The Marmara Pera hotel, the minarets and domes of Sultanahmet glow gold as cargo ships move silently through the water, and the evening call to prayer reverberates across the rosy sky.

It is one of the most magical skylines in the world, especially when the air is balmy, and there's a promise of long, hot nights to come.

We eat a tasty eggs Benedict breakfast on the terrace of The House Café in Ortaköy, with the sun streaming down on the Bosphorus Bridge and Ortaköy Camii mosque in front of it.

We buy rings we don't need at Ortaköy's Camden-style silver market, and drink in more romantic views on the terrace of Müzedechanga, a cool retro-styled restaurant-café at the Sakip Sabanci Müzesi further north.

And we amble back to posh Bebek for a late lunch at Mangerie, a scrubbed-white hideaway with a covered veranda, serving simple but delicious salads and cakes. The sun on the water and the sparkling-white boats, the modish urbanites and the steep cliffs carpeted in green all bring to mind the Côte d'Azur, but with an exotic twist.

DETAILS: Istanbul

STAY - Witt Istanbul Suites , Cighangir ( 00 90 212 393 79 00, www. wittistanbul.com). Hip new hotel with 15 retro- modern suites by Autoban and a rooftop gym. Doubles from £ 135 B& B.

Four Seasons Bosphorus, Besiktas ( 00 90 212 381 4000, www.fourseasons.com). New sister property to the award-winning Four Seasons in Sultanahmet, housed in a 19th- century Ottoman palace and two purpose-built wings. Heated waterfront pool and spa. Doubles from £ 272 B& B.

W Istanbul , Besiktas ( 00800 325 25252; www. whotels. com/ istanbul). The first W in Europe is also the cornerstone of the smart new Akaretler project: four blocks of neo- classical residences, originally built for officers of Sultan Abdülaziz at Dolmabahçe Palace, are now redeveloped as apartments and boutiques. The vibe is nightclubby, and the south- east Asian street food menu is overseen by Jean- Georges Vongerichten. Doubles from £329 B&B.

Sumahan on the Water, Çengelköy ( 00 90 216 422 8000, www.sumahan.com). 19th-century raki distillery- turned- boutique hotel on the Asian shore, with Zen rooms, a hammam, a highly regarded waterfront fish restaurant and a cute wooden launch to ferry you to Europe. At night, you can watch the Bosphorus suspension bridge flash pink and turquoise over the choppy water. Doubles from £158 B& B.

EAT AND DRINK - Mikla , Beyoglu (00 90 212 293 5656; www.istanbulyi.com). The Mediterranean food with a Turkish/ Scandinavian twist — hamsi (anchovies) embedded in a waferthin crisp, lamb shank with summer vegetable puree — is light and delicious.

Mehmet Gürs also heads up NuTeras (00 90 212 245 6070), which serves Mediterranean food and mezze to a more unruly crowd on the top of the nearby NuPera building.

Vogue, Besiktas (00 90 212 227 4404, www. istanbuldoors.com). Hot spot known for its sushi.

The House Café, Ortaköy ( 00 90 212 227 2699, www.thehousecafe.com.tr). One of a chain of 10 casual restaurants with a hip décor of mismatched chairs and contemporary lightbulb clusters by Autoban, and food by young, Londontrained chef Coskun Uysal.

Mangerie, Bebek (00 90 212 263 5199).

Müzedechanga, Emirgan (00 90 212 323 0901, muze. sabanciuniv.edu/ main/default.php). The Asian shore of the Bosphorus, and the red drums planted with cypress on the terrace, are reflected in the mirrored back wall of this museum café.

FLY - Pegasus (www.flypgs.com) flies five times weekly from Stansted from £ 29 one- way.

www. gototurkey.co. uk.

MORE ABOUT

Istanbul

Instant Istanbul

Read More