Fantasy island: Dubai's aquatic oasis

Walking into the lobby of Atlantis, the Palm is like entering a crazy, kaleidoscopic world of giant pillars encrusted with shells, sky-high colourful murals and, the focal point, a curling, multi-coloured, glass sculpture that spirals upwards to the ceiling.

Mobile phone cameras flash like paparazzi spotting a celebrity over this glass centerpiece. Shipped over in individual pieces, it took eight weeks to assemble.

But this is hotel-showman Sol Kerzner and this is Atlantis sat at the top of Dubai's man-made island, so what do I expect? We were on a long weekend lured by this 1,539-room, 46-hectare ocean-themed resort.

The Ambassador Lagoon — the real draw of the hotel — is stunning, an 11 million-litre marine habitat (there are also the mystical ruins of Atlantis).

No matter how many times you pass it you are compelled by its soothing turquoise glow to stop and stare at the sharks, piranhas and tropical, colourful fish. Divers dip down to feed twice a day always drawing a crowd. There are even suites which look into the aquarium, so close that you feel submerged under the sea.

It was hot. So hot that when you passed from the heat outside to the over-air conditioned interiors your sunglasses misted over. So hot that following a swim around the busy outdoor pool we decided to visit the Aquaventure water park. This is possibly the best thing that you can do in Dubai's searing heat: 42 acres of water slides and river rides with cascades and rapids.

It has to be said that the most popular with our family (and everybody else's) was the Splashers children's play area. At certain times the bell rings and a huge vat of water pours down on you — strangely simple, yes, but we loved it.

By comparison, the most famous ride is the 30m high Leap of Faith, where you shoot down though a transparent tunnel then through a shark-filled lagoon, where guitar sharks, bow mouth sharks, white tip, black tip and grey reef sharks all lurk before spitting out at the other end.

Thankfully, five-year-old Maya was too young so I had an excuse not to partake, leaving the adrenalin rush to her dad.

We ate that night in Ronda Locatelli (chef Giorgio, after who it's named, has one Michelin star). It has a cosy fire outside, designed by Jeffrey Beers (Wynn Las Vegas), strange in Dubai, but the restaurant is well designed and serves high quality food — pizzas from brick ovens and tender lamb. The service was good too, Maya was concerned that she should cover her shoulders (copying my nod to Ramadam in not showing mine) and so was bought a beautiful "poshmina".