Discover Provence and the Rhône Valley on a cruiser

It's a crisp, starry night as we stroll up the slipway onto the riverside promenade. Curving along the bank to our left are the twinkling lights of the Provençal town of Arles, where streetlights cast evenly spaced pools of yellow light onto the black river Rhône that flows rapidly below. I reach for my camera to catch this picturesque moment, but then see the board beside the river, showing this pretty night vista, of twinkling streetlamps and stars,

I realise now why —although full on our dinner of moules mariniere and sea bass with truffle mash — we have set out with our guide on a tour of Arles so late in the evening. It isn't just to walk off the tarte tatin and that extra glass of Condrieu, but to enable us to see the city — its colours, textures, light and shadow — through the eyes of Arles' most famous resident.

Back at the riverside, we climb back onboard our péniche-hôtel Napoléon, a floating boutique hotel that is home for the next few days as we cruise the Rhône from Arles to Lyon, the river's furthest navigable point. This luxury barge, which sleeps 12 and has a crew of six, is the perfect base from which to explore Provence and the Rhône valley as it combines cruising with shore excursions to the region's unmissable sights.

Inside, the comfortable lounge — decorated in the red and yellow signature shades of Provence — is the perfect place for a night cap of pastis before I crawl under the Frette linen covers in my roomy double cabin, complete with products from Provençal brand L'Occitane, naturally.

The following morning we step inside the very room in which Van Gogh painted the majority of his great works, in the mental institution of Saint Paul de Mausole in St-Rémy. Vincent's wooden chair and bed are no longer there, but the red-tiled floor and enchanting view from the window remain.

Below in the garden, beds of purple irises, a peach tree in full bloom, olive trees and rows of lavender colour the landscape. Looking out through the bars on the window, it's not hard to feel inspired. See for yourself how this idyllic setting has inspired current patients downstairs, where works produced during art therapy sessions are presented for sale in the gift shop.

A tasting visit to a working olive farm — in the grounds of a picture postcard Provençal bastide — follows before we hop back onboard Napoléon (loaded with organic oils and hand-made
tapenades) for a lunchtime cruise to the city of Avignon.

Hilltop watchtowers and castles in various states of decay stand guard, while the blue-green river — wider and faster- flowing than I had imagined — swirls by and as we watch from the top deck, a glass of Tavel in hand. However, gravel works and power stations on the banks are a reminder that this is not the quaint Canal du Midi, but an industrial artery.

Our arrival in Avignon is signalled by the famous 17th century half-bridge and guests' attempts to remember its famous song, once learnt at school.

From our mooring we can see the towers of the Pope's palace and cathedral that rise up inside the perfectly preserved city walls. A guided visit to the palace illuminates the fascinating history of papal Avignon, while there's time after to browse the designer boutiques or to people-watch over a café noisette in a pavement bistro. Don't miss the chance to join the chef on his morning visit to Avignon's central market: not only will he explain the many local specialities on sale but you can also choose the produce you'd like to see on that day's menu.

The days that follow during the cruise to Lyon present opportunities to forage for truffles, visit a lavender distillery and enjoy a private visit and tasting at Château la Nerthe in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, where the ruins of the papal
summer residence tower over famously profitable vineyards.

Families with children can visit water parks or borrow the Napoléon's bikes to cycle the towpath. Alternatively, do as little as you please: occupy a sun lounger or soak in the Jacuzzi on the top deck.

You can opt in or out of excursions, but they are well worth joining, not least because every moment onboard you'll be tempted by a stream of fine wines, Provençal cuisine and French cheeses.