A speed date with Paris

This is the perfect time for a short break in Paris. There is a frosty nip in the air, the light has a misty, moody, grey quality and trees in the parks and gardens are in full autumnal glory. Outside cafés and brasseries men are deftly shucking oysters. And of course there is Christmas shopping - so plan your precious time in advance. Bring a good map and comfortable shoes because walking is the best way to enjoy this magical city.

Start the day watching the world go by in a window seat at one of the Left Bank's famous cafés - Les Deux Magots or Café de Flore. Fortified with a bowl of strong café crème and a croissant, it's a good way to strategise your day.

The two Paris art blockbusters this season are Courbet at the Grand Palais and Alberto Giacometti at the Pompidou Centre. However, don't miss a retrospective exhibition of the great photographer Edward Steiche including portraits of Rodin and Churchill.

It's those small, uniquely Parisian streets such as Rue du Bac, combining chic boutiques with proper neighbourhood shops, that make wandering such a delight. La Paresse en Douce sells luxurious items for the bedroom and bathroom; cashmere throws, sexy silk nightgowns, soaps, candles and room fragrances; while one of the city's best cheese shops, Barthelemy, is a stone's throw around the corner. Then wander across the road to Conran, which is always worth a browse.

On the Left Bank, if you are in a shoe and bag-buying mood, Rue de Grenelle has boutiques of every name from Christian Louboutin to Stephane Kélian and Prada. Renault Pellegrino has a selection of exquisite one-off evening bags, gloves and, yes, divine shoes.

Don't miss Dries Van Noten's townhouse emporium on the Quai Malaquais, which perfectly complements his quirky boho creations. If you are looking for vintage clothing, Ragtime, tucked away in Rue de l'Echaudé, is a treasure trove of elegant clothing and accessories including a selection of outrageous furs.

In a less touristy part of the Marais, Rue du Pont Louis Philippe houses the headquarters of the French Communist Party and a store selling products from the monasteries of Jerusalem, as well as contemporary jewellery, knitwear and design boutiques. The main attraction for me is Calligrane, where I stock up on textured, handmade papers in natural fibres. The stationery in glistening, shimmering shades of green, lilac and orange is irresistible. Round the corner on Rue François Miron is Faux de Vie and Vins du Monde, an exotic, rather old-fashioned food emporium piled high with sacks of aromatic spices, grains, olives, nuts and candied fruits.

You will need to stop and recharge your batteries with lunch. If fish tempts you, the minuscule L'Ecaille de la Fontaine near Opera, owned by actors Gerard Depardieu and Carol Bouquet, has a delectable menu. Reserve well in advance or you have no hope of getting a table. There are numerous excellent and popular wine bars for a plate of charcuterie, a hearty dish of the day and a glass or two of wine. Both Rubis, somewhat "old school", with wooden wine vats used as tables and a smoky atmosphere, and the more modern Willi's Wine Bar are good choices.

For serious fashion - and if the prices are beyond your means you can always daydream and head for the Faubourg Saint-Honoré area. Check out what's hot and trendy in Colette. Whether it's the latest gimmicky gadgetry or a well-edited selection of fashion brands, this is still an inspirational place. Even the young, stylish customers are worth looking at.

I am a huge fan of Alber Elbaz - Lanvin's charismatic designer - and the refurbished boutique in Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré is packed with merchandise to make an addicted fashionista salivate, particularly this season's ruffled satin shift dresses in hot jewel shades. The men's shop is across the road and if the shocking pink bow ties worn by the salesmen are anything to go by it's not for the sartorially timid.