A fashion Firenze

Florence often functions as a city-cummuseum,

For me, every trip to Florence begins with a visit to the Fondazione Roberto Capucci, a small museum in the recently restored Villa Bardini (it also houses a permanent exhibition of exquisite Pietro Annigoni portraits). Capucci (the Givenchy of Rome'), now retired, was the master of
bold, architectural pleated gowns, particularly loved by European aristocrats. The collection changes from time to time, so a visit there is an absolute must every time I'm in town – I'd hate to miss a fabulous treasure. And I was delighted to discover that the villa's terrace restaurant (the perfect spot for a hot chocolate looking over the rooftops) has become one of the cognoscenti's latest hangouts.

Where to go next but Luisa Via Roma, the hippest shop in Florence? The fashion selection is avant-garde, with names including Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester, Givenchy and Delfi na Delettrez, all clinically displayed in the über-modern space. For something more traditional, there's always Principe, which has good men's shirts and boxer shorts, all in my favourite ginghams and
stripes. My super-stylish mother bought me my fi rst good' shirt there when I was ten and, like a good Italian son, I have been shopping there ever since.

Of course, for pure style, it has to be Salvatore
Ferragamo; the label is without doubt the city's best fashion export. The Ferragamo Museum, in the basement beneath the medieval shop, is as elegant and stylish as the shoes on display, which have
been worn by stars including John Wayne, Ava Gardner, Judy Garland, Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn and Drew Barrymore; some of the shoe lasts are even signed by them.

That evening it was time to see some fashion in action. A room in the Fascistera railway station Santa Maria Novella was the set for a witty presentation by the young German-born designer Umit Benan. His Retired Rockers collection was inspired by veteran stars such as the Rolling Stones and Bruce Springsteen, and his models
sat around a table laden with food, drinks and candles, sipping champagne and eating grapes and strawberries; perfect tailoring and sexy accessories shown in a fun way – the audience was wildly amused.

A quick aperitivo at the historic Gilli bar on Piazza della Repubblica, with its original belle époque interior, was a reminder of the city's old-fashioned glamour and suitable preparation for the short drive to the Giles Deacon presentation. His location, on the outskirts of Florence, was the Richard Ginori factory, maker of the best porcelain in Italy since 1735. The models, in elegant contemporary geometric wool coats, tailored suits and padded jackets,
dug their Louboutin heels into broken crockery, and some had porcelain plates perched on their heads.

Day two of my adventure began with a visit to the eclectic emporium of Elio Ferraro. He collects vintage from all over the world and the shopping
experience is mindblowing for any fashion victim: Balenciaga from the 1950s, Yves Saint Laurent from the 1970s, some great 1980s Versace. All this alongside beautiful costume jewellery and, the highlight for me, classic pieces by the Milanese decorative artist Fornasetti – highly collectable and my absolute favourite (I have a couple of plates and a vase at home).

Come lunchtime, the fashion pack was at Coco Lezzoni, a small restaurant hidden o the chic via
Tornabuoni. The food, the best Florentine cuisine, is as simple as the décor. At one table Matthew Williamson, in town to launch his menswear line, entertained his design team; at another was Laudomia Pucci, daughter of Emilio,
the aristocrat who turned sportswear into luxury fashion with those famous prints.

Finally, I dashed to the little town of Prato, to the Museo Pecci for the real highlight of my trip: meeting John Malkovich. The star of Dangerous Liaisons and Being John Malkovich (one of my favourite films ever) quietly talked me through his men's collection. He's used lots of
unconventional fabrics – devoré velvets, heavy linens – to make long jackets and high-waisted trousers, and the result is a great look for the modern hippie-dandy. I particularly fell for his illustrations of shoes, ties and shirts: so charming. Of course he chose Florence to launch
his collection – it is a timelessly elegant city enjoying a very fashionable renaissance.