Still, one feels that Tracey is in a constant state of mourning. Her studio is littered with small chairs which, she says, belong to 'all my dead children', referring as much, I think, to dreamed-of babies as to the abortions. Her relationships are long-term and serious; she doesn't do casual. She went out with the writer, curator and gallery owner Carl Freedman from 1993 to 1996 ('We had a clause that we renewed our relationship every six months, we never took it for granted and we're still very good friends'), fellow YBA Mat Collishaw from 1997 to 2002 and photographer Scott Douglas from 2006 to 2010.
Tracey's problem with Christmas is that 'for people with children it is utterly child-centred', and she wishes she knew more childless women. But she manages to find enough waifs and strays to make a party on Christmas Eve at her Huguenot house off Brick Lane, in which the basement kitchen is dominated by a long wooden table with a miniature Nativity scene on it –'from Austria; I go there every January to read and detox' – and each room is painted in 17th-century colours and furnished with carefully sourced antiques. And she has Docket, a cat given to her a decade ago by Mat Collishaw, who is now in a relationship with the taxidermy artist Polly Morgan. 'A docket is what you get before you get your ticket: Docket was my pre-child instruction manual. Now, of course, he is my child.' She laughs. 'For Christmas Eve, I cook chicken soup and vegetable soup, buy big cheeses, and text invitations to friends who I know are on their own. People are usually invited somewhere on Christmas Day or are going away to escape, so Christmas Eve is a good one. Sometimes it's ten people, sometimes 30. I decorate the house with fairy lights and candles and it's quite secular, but we do go to Midnight Mass. A couple of years ago I decorated the church and hired candelabras. When we arrive, it's a bit like Stella Street, neighbours turning round in their pews saying, "That really looks like Bianca Jagger!" Last time, Bianca and Vivienne [Westwood] heckled the vicar because they didn't agree with what he was saying. And I was so drunk I started miaowing during the Amens. But it's nice, not about presents or money, but doing something together.'
This year Tracey's mother Pam, 82, is spending Christmas with her. 'The reason I've never liked Christmas is because my mum used to waitress on Christmas Day and Paul and I sat at home waiting for her. We didn't have decorations, our house wasn't Christmassy. My mum didn't like it because my dad was never with us, he was with his wife and their children. She's always refused to come to mine. I think she agreed this year because I told her I missed her when I was in hospital.' Tracey broke three ribs in October after falling down the steep flight of stairs that leads to her attic bedroom. She had spent a relatively sober evening with friends at a restaurant. Luckily her friend Joe, who lives in the cottage at the bottom of her garden, found her. Tracey's mother lives in a flat near Margate that the artist bought for her, and Tracey is clearly thrilled to have her to stay: 'I'm taking her bowling at Shoreditch House.'