Top three: Eton messes

For a lazy Sunday lunch

Franklins

157 Lordship Lane, SE22 (020 8299 9598; franklinsrestaurant.com)

This neighbourhood restaurant and its adjoining shop are justifiably popular. The owners are obsessive about sourcing good, local produce. Start off with one of the glorious terrines or half a lobster, move on to rainbow trout with samphire, or salt beef hash, but leave room for pud: the blousy Eton Mess (£6.50) is not to be missed.

For a slap-up summer meal

The Peasant

240 St John Street, EC1 (020 7336 7726; thepeasant.co.uk)

There’s a great set menu on offer this summer in the upstairs restaurant of this gastropub — three courses, £22; two courses, £18 — and one of those courses should definitely be the indulgent chocolate and Baileys Eton Mess. This was only the second genuine gastropub to open in London, so they know what they’re doing.

For treating out-of-towners

The National Cafe

The National Gallery, WC2 (020 7747 5942; peytonandbyrne.co.uk/the-national-cafe)

This is the perfect spot for a pre-theatre supper or a post-gallery afternoon reboot. The double-height room is almost as grand as the Eton Mess (£6.50) — a towering confection of fresh fruit and meringue prettily piled high in a sundae glass.