We began the next morning in the way that all indolent Italians, from the Roman emperors on, do - with a massage. The hotel has a new state-of-the-art Aveda spa designed by the celebrated architect Gae Aulenti and I enjoyed the intensity of the hydrotherm massage. Oiled and buffed, we went for a stroll down the wide main steps to browse in numerous little shops selling corals, linens, and the tan leather sandals that Positano is so well known for. The town is a warren of tiny streets and staircases, all fringed by artfully trimmed lemon trees, which makes it feel a bit like being in a private garden. Of course I couldn't resist a quick sneak into the imposing 13th-century cathedral, Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta, so white and calm that it makes one yearn, momentarily, for the monastic life. Quickly putting these dreams aside, I paid my respects to the beautiful black Madonna icon that commands the altar. That would make my mother happy, I thought.