The top three: sardines

Barrafina

54 Frith Street, W1 (barrafina.co.uk)

In this teeny restaurant you can imagine yourself in Spain. Grab a seat at the bar and order some of the best fish you can eat in London. Sardines a la plancha (£8) are simply but perfectly grilled, and are just right to be shared with a freshly made tortilla, some ham croquetas or octopus with capers, and maybe a glass of Pastrana sherry (£6).

Ametsa

The Halkin, Halkin Street, SW1 (020 7333 1234)

Tucked away in The Halkin hotel, this restaurant brings San Sebastián’s cuisine to town. The menu features dishes created by Elena Arzak, a Michelin-starred chef from the Basque town. One of the best is sardinas con piel roja (red-skin sardines, £14.50 as a starter), marinated and topped with a layer of piquillo pepper ‘skin’.

Brixton Village Grill

43-44 GrandVille Arcade, Brixton Market, SW9 (brixton-villagegrill.com)

Another of Brixton Market’s buzzy hotspots, this brightly painted restaurant is great for a slap-up supper. Its Portuguese-English menu is hearty, with plenty of peri peri spice. Sardines here are rock-salted and grilled, with their skins crispy and deliciously charred in places (£3.50).