The Top Three: Octopus

Best for greedy gangs

Gail’s Kitchen

11-13 Bayley Street, WC1 (020 7323 9694; gailskitchen.co.uk)

Just off Tottenham Court Road, and tucked into the side of a hotel, this is an offshoot of the Gail’s Artisan Bakery chain. Try the polenta chips, which are simultaneously crispy and chewy, then follow with as many sharing plates as you can manage: the octopus is perfectly chargrilled and served with chickpeas and harissa (£7.50).

Best for gap-year nostalgia

100 Hoxton

100-102 Hoxton Street, N1 (020 7729 1444; 100hoxton.com)

A new spot for Shoreditch with chefs from Zilouf’s, Nopi and Ottolenghi, so expect dishes and flavours from all over the world. Fittingly for the neighbourhood, it’s a cool, stripped-back brick and concrete place. The octopus is braised with celeriac and garam masala (£8), which is a lovely autumnal way to serve it.

Best for a swanky date

Duck & Waffle

Heron Tower, 110 Bishopgate, EC2 (020 3640 7310; duckandwaffle.com)

Getting to Duck & Waffle — whizzing up the Heron Tower in a glass lift — is almost as much fun as eating there. After marvelling at the view, tuck into the small plates menu: the spicy ox cheek doughnut is outrageously tasty and the roasted octopus with capers and potatoes delicious (£13).