The Top Three: Meat Pies

For a seasonal treat

The Abbeville Kitchen 47 Abbeville Road, SW4 (020 8772 1110; abbevillekitchen.com)

The menu changes almost daily in line with the seasons and what’s good at the market, but there’s nearly always a warming pie to be had, filled with something hearty such as beef or venison (£32; serves two). This is a very friendly little neighbourhood restaurant that manages to be cool without being arch or annoying.

For a late supper

Quo Vadis 26-29 Dean Street, W1 (020 7437 9585; quovadissoho.co.uk)

It was a stroke of genius on the part of owners Sam and Eddie Hart to snaffle chef Jeremy Lee to work for them, not least because of his pies. They are always on the menu (around £16-£17, depending on the filling) and come packed with meat such as rabbit or pheasant or duck. Try a kickshaw, a little deep-fried pocket of pie (£3).

For lunch on a chilly day

Eat My Pies King’s Cross Boulevard, Whitecross Street Market and Broadway Market (eatmypies.co.uk)

Chef Andy Bates started selling his handmade pies to remind people what a proper pie should taste like. If you want something seriously filling, head for one of his stalls (the website shows where he’ll be). His smallest pies start at £2, or you can splurge £5 on rabbit and bacon, or pork, leek and apple.

Photographs by Steven Joyce