The New York-inspired food here is bang up to date, with truffled mac ’n’ cheese or rare-breed burgers alongside rich New England crab cakes — the crab is actually Cornish — (£6.95). Order a Maple Trace, a cinnamon-twisted version of an Old Fashioned (£7.50), to go with them. This place is all about old music and mismatched fittings (check out the lights, which come from a Japanese ship), so there’s honky-tonk and old-time jazz with your supper.