Rebecca Seal's top three cod dishes in London

Best for balmy evenings

Bonnie Gull seafood cafe

There’s something about being able to smell fresh fish cooking at this open-fronted, blue and white painted restaurant that makes it feel like a real seaside café, and not ersatz, as it could. The menu changes often, but look out for dishes such as cod served with courgette purée and stuffed courgette flowers. (Mains from £14.50.)

55-57 Exmouth Market, EC1 (020 3122 0047; bonniegull.com)

Best for sharing plates

Drake’s Tabanco

This little spot is modelled on the sherry bars of Jerez in Spain (where sherry comes from) and has a brilliant collection of rare and unusual sherries. Try the peppers stuffed with salt cod and flaked almonds (£5), plus aubergine crisps, cured sardines, smoked scallops and the many different kinds of charcuterie.

3 Windmill Street, W1 (020 7637 9388; drakestabanco.com)

Best for seeing and being seen

Berners Tavern

Eating in this beautiful dining room, its walls packed with paintings, feels very glamorous. As at all Jason Atherton’s restaurants, the service is excellent and the wine list is full of gems. Try the South Coast cod with puy lentils, charred onions and bacon (£22), or on Fridays, the exemplary cod, mushy peas and chips (£18).

10 Berners Street, W1 (020 7908 7979; bernerstavern.com)