Rachel Khoo: love shank

Researching my latest book has sent me on a gastronomic tour of France. Among the many places, faces and tastes that have become my inspiration is Yannick Frain, a fourth-generation saltmarsh lamb producer, whose sheep graze at the foot of Brittany’s Mont Saint Michel.

Lamb, for me, is one of the culinary highlights of spring. But this year has been disastrous for British sheep farmers — the brutal weather in the middle of lambing has meant an influx of lamb from Antipodean competitors. This flavoursome slow-cooked lamb recipe is a tasty reason to head to the shops and support our British farmers.

Saltmarsh lamb shanks with mustardy green beans

Serves 4

4 lamb shanks

4 tbsp olive oil

2 carrots, peeled and cut in chunks

2 red onions, peeled and chopped

3 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

3 sage leaves, roughly chopped

4 anchovy fillets

400g tin of tomatoes

250ml red wine

10 green olives, pitted

For the beans:

300g fine green beans

3 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp lemon juice

1 tbsp English mustard

Pat the lamb shanks with kitchen paper and season. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large ovenproof pan. Once the oil is hot, add the lamb and brown the meat on all sides. Remove from the pan, add the rest of the oil, followed by the carrots, onions and garlic. Once the onions and garlic are soft, add the sage and anchovies. Return the lamb to the pot and add the tomatoes. Refill the tin with water and add that to the pot with the wine. Cover and cook in the oven at 180C/Gas Mark 4 for 2½ hours, removing the cover after 2 hours and adding the olives.

Meanwhile, trim the beans. Bring a pan to the boil and blanch the beans for 2-3 minutes until tender. Whisk the olive oil with the lemon juice and mustard and toss the beans in the dressing.

Once the shanks are tender, remove from the pan and drizzle with the juices. Serve with the beans.