The French are fans of the ‘extended apéritif’ — drinks accompanied by enough nibbles to justify skipping supper. Canapés should be classy without wreaking havoc for the host, which is why my vol-au-vents are just perfect for a party. You can make them with homemade or bought puff pastry, or ready-made vol-au-vent shells. If using frozen shells, follow cooking instructions as per packet. Leave to cool slightly before adding the fillings. If the shells are already cooked, warm in the oven for 2-3 minutes at 180C, before adding the fillings. Each filling makes enough for 12 vol-au-vent shells.