Rachel Khoo: best of the zest

I love the marinated fish dish ceviche, especially in the summer when the combination of citrus, a little heat and a hit of coriander slips down like a cool glass of rosé.

It goes without saying that the best ceviche is made with the freshest fish, but you needn’t be a slave to sourcing the sea bream I’ve used here; this recipe works equally well with sea bass or any other catch of the day.

Sweet potato ceviche bites

Makes around 16-18

2 tbsp rapeseed oil

2 sweet potatoes

1 pink grapefruit

2 limes, juiced

1 red onion, peeled, halved and very finely sliced

1 tsp sugar

1 tsp paprika

250g sea bream

Sea salt, to taste

Salad leaves (optional)

Preheat the oven to 200C/Gas Mark 6. Pour the oil into a large, non-stick baking tray and put it in the oven to heat. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil. Peel the sweet potatoes and cut lengthways into 5mm slices. Cook for one minute in the boiling water. Pat dry and toss into the hot oil. Roast for 20 minutes, turning once, until they are golden brown. When they are cooked, set aside on kitchen paper or a wire rack.

Peel the grapefruit and cut into segments. Place in a bowl and squeeze the remaining juice from the discarded skin over the top. Add the lime juice, red onion, sugar and paprika. Leave in the fridge until needed.

Cut the fish into 2cm cubes. Add to the juice just before serving. Serve the ceviche on top of the potato slices. For a starter, serve three per person, with salad leaves if required.