Rachel Khoo: Basmati time

Like many of the greatest inventions, I can only imagine that crispy burned rice originated via a culinary calamity.

We’ve all had them. But ‘chalau’ has become a perennial plate in Afghan cuisine: cooked rice is slowly burned on the bottom of the pan, resulting in a crunchy, crisp mess to be scraped up and savoured.

I first tried it one Easter when an Afghan friend cooked a traditional dinner in which it played a supporting role alongside tender chicken morsels in a pomegranate and walnut sauce, and succulent potatoes cooked in a rich stock. This humble rice dish was the highlight for me and had us all fighting over the crispy bits.

In my home crispy rice now plays a starring role and, inspired by kedgeree, gets bulked up with squidgy eggs and hot-smoked trout.

CRISPY PEA CHALAU

Serves 4 as a side, 2 as a main

200g basmati rice

500g hot chicken or vegetable stock

2 garlic cloves, minced

150g frozen peas

2 tbsp chopped mint

75g hot-smoked trout (skin removed), flaked

3 boiled eggs, peeled and quartered

For the yoghurt dressing:

100ml Greek yoghurt

1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 tbsp chopped mint

Add the rice to a small pot and ladle the hot stock over it. Cover and boil for 7 minutes, then drain off any excess stock. In a large nonstick pan, add a knob of butter and gently fry the garlic until it begins to sizzle, then stir in the rice and a pinch of salt. Wrap the lid of the pan with a tea towel and cook for 25 minutes on a low heat. After 10 minutes, add the peas and replace the lid.

Make the yoghurt dressing by mixing all the ingredients together and season.

Once the rice is cooked, scrape up all the crispy bits from the bottom and toss with the peas and mint. Season to taste. Serve on a large plate with the trout and eggs scattered on top and the yoghurt dressing and lemon wedges on the side.