This Christmas I’ll be with my parents in Puglia. Italians have their main meal on Christmas Eve, when we eat fish and then open presents. Because I’ve lived outside Italy for so long, it’s usually a mixture of Italian and British traditions — my mother Antonia, who is 78, cooks turkey on Christmas Day. It’s the one day of the year when the English spend longer eating lunch than the Italians. It’s also the one day I won’t be dressing up. I will probably wear a red tracksuit, which is the best I can do.