My London: Fred Sirieix

The First Dates maître d’ dines on black rice and squid ink at El Pirata, likes romantic walks in royal parks and loses himself at Porchester Spa

Lee Martin

Joanna Taylor

13 February 2022

Home is…

South-east London, with my partner and my children.

Which shops do you rely on?

Locally, I love the Aries Bakehouse, FC Soper the fishmonger, the fruit and veg shop Beaumont in Nunhead and William Rose butchers in Dulwich. And of course I love Moss Bros — I’ve launched a collection of clothes with them and I’m very excited.

What is the best meal you’ve had?

When I had just met [my partner] Fruitcake, we went to Beast and had the most amazing meal. It was very early days so it was all exciting — it’s still just as exciting now. We had crab, beef and a very nice bottle of red wine. It was the perfect evening. We’ve been together for quite a few years. Still not long enough, though.

What’s your first memory of London?

I have so many memories of London. I remember when I was fresh off the boat in 1992, walking through Pimlico to where I was going to live not far from Lupus Street. I was paying £50 a month for a bedsit with a bathroom in the hallway that I shared with other people. I remember it like it was yesterday. I also used to love running. I don’t run like I used to, but back then I would leave the house and run in and around London for hours non-stop. Sometimes I would go for an hour, sometimes I just wouldn’t stop. I was like Forrest Gump. I used to run everywhere: around the Embankment, in the centre, in the City. I used to love going to the Barbican at night because it’s like a modern day castle — I thought it was so romantic. I felt like an urban gazelle, totally connected with London, with the people there, with the buildings, the ground, everything. It was a very intense time.

The Barbican

Who do you call when you want to have fun?

Fruitcake is a good call, she is always fun. If only you knew. I also have some very good friends. The other night I was out with Gino [D’Acampo] and I’m not going to say it was a mistake, but it was… if you know what I mean, it was just mad. Whenever I’m with him we just have such a good time.

Where would you recommend for a first date?

It depends what your budget is, but I think a walk in the park is always a lovely thing to do because you can have a conversation. You can cut the walk short or make it longer, you can stop and have a coffee if you like. I like the royal parks — Hyde Park, St James’s Park. Dulwich Park is also beautiful. The only thing at the moment is that it’s a bit cold, so maybe go for a coffee, some tapas, that would be lovely.

Where do you go to let your hair down?

There is a small Spanish place in Mayfair called El Pirata that has been around for 20 years. I know everyone there, the chef, the manager, they look after me like a king — I never look at the menu. I love going there. If you invite friends, you know you’re going to be well looked after, you know it’s never going to disappoint. They have lovely black rice with squid ink, lovely ham and some brilliant Riojas.

What’s your London secret?

The Porchester Spa near Bayswater. It’s about 100 years old and it’s just been refurbished. It’s one of those old bathhouses and it’s huge inside. There’s a little community of people who go there to go to the hammam or to the sauna. It’s quite an experience to go and lose yourself on a Sunday and then go for a Chinese next door. They have a cold plunge pool that you use after your hammam and you just feel so good after, it’s perfect. It’s great in the winter when it’s very cold outside because it just makes you feel so good.

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First Dates

Fred Sirieix

My London: Fred Sirieix

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