Make-up bag of the future

If you know what you want from your make-up — think again. Inside the Maybelline New York lab, scientists are working on products that won't hit the shelves for years yet. With walls stacked with nail varnishes, functioning clocks made of mascara wands and workbenches lined with test tubes full of the next miracle foundation, the laboratory headquarters are a beauty lover's paradise.

"The focus of our research is on women's needs," says Debra Coleman Nally, director of scientific communication. "We analyse what's missing from their make-up bags and use the latest technology to create affordable products that fill that gap and tap into the latest trends."

Inside the hallowed rooms, where security is tighter than M15, Maybelline — the world's best-selling cosmetic brand — churns out more than 700 new formulas a year. It ploughs hundreds of millions of dollars into product and consumer research to determine what we want from our make-up — before we even know it ourselves.

Forget Cheryl Cole, the Maybelline New York Wand Wizard (a man solely responsible for developing new mascara brushes) predicted the lash phenomenon that struck last year back in the days when contrast-colour lip liner and permatans were in. If Maybelline's Great Lash mascara, (£4.99) is sold every 1.4 seconds globally, the forthcoming Lash Stiletto Voluptuous, (£7.99), which features a new "S-shaped" brush, is expected to cause a storm in stores when it launches in June.

Over in the lip lab, giant vats of molten lipstick are prepared for production. From the "walk-in wardrobe" of pearlescent powders, shimmering blends are added to create the yet-to-be-launched Colour Sensational Pearl lipstick collection, (£6.99 each). A sample of a new shade can be made in less than three minutes — and trigger sales of three million in the US alone within months of launching.

"We have to anticipate what women will want up to a decade in advance," says Ruth Donat in the lip lab. The future of lipstick, she says, is shades that adapt to changes in light to look flattering in all weathers, day or night, inside or out. And while you may currently be wearing the classic red lip with an orange undertone (very spring/summer 10), by 2012 you'll be rocking a version with hues of blue or lime that add a whole new dimension.

The real holy grail of make-up, however, is in the hands of seven scientists who spend their days analysing images of the skin's structure magnified a million times and mixing up formulas in test tubes. The result — still top secret for now — will be a foundation/applicator combination that wipes away wrinkles with a revolutionary "3D formula". In future, your foundation will be able to create a pillowy effect on the skin, playing with tricks of the eye to plump out wrinkles while creating the kind of immaculate complexion most of us can only dream of. In the meantime, powdery face formulas are out, as women of all ages realise that a dewy look really does appear younger and fresher. The new SuperStay 24HR foundation (£8.99, available April) combines a flexible resin and wax that allows it to move with your face throughout the day, so there's no caking by the time you leave the office.

Since last year — 96 years into the brand's history — Maybelline New York has been the official make-up sponsor of the city's Fashion Week. International make-up artist Charlotte Willer led the way in beauty trends with apple green eyeshadow (used wet to line the lower lashes) and mismatching brows (one darkened and spiky, the other natural) at the recent catwalk shows.

"In the future, women are going to become more adventurous with make-up, finding looks to suit them at every age," she says.
Mismatched brows may not be top of your make-up agenda but don't rule it out — those Maybelline New York experts have a habit of being right.

MORE FUTURISTIC PRODUCTS FOR SUMMER

L'Oreal Youth Code
Part of the new generation of "gene-based" anti-ageing products. From £14.99

Kaplanmd Lip 20
Hyaluronic acid spheres are micro-injected into the lips for instant plumping and smoothing. £22.50; www.cultbeauty.co.uk

Violet Bulle d'Agathe
Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian brings a new dimension to scent. £15; www.liberty.co.uk from April