I have lived a kind of cotton-wool existence, able to buy my way out of any difficult decision, including what to feed the children. Weeks might go past without it even occurring to me to give them baked potatoes. Such wholesome staples as baked beans, which I used to eat straight from the tin when I first arrived in London, had somehow passed out of my life. In 1992, when I met Sally, she possessed a copy of Delia Smith’s Frugal Food, already disintegrating from heavy use, and would think nothing of feeding 20 friends in the youth-hostel-like kitchen above The Green Man in Islington, the pub where she herself rented a room.