Rye sounds a bit like it was designed by an algorithm commissioned by Visit England. Spectacular beaches, an ancient castle, higgledy-piggledy historic streets, a microbrewery, literary pedigree (Rudyard Kipling and Henry James: check and check); independent bookshops; blah blah blah. Stunning? Yes. A little smug? Yes. Still, these locals are welcoming (literally, can they do no wrong?) They invite you round for coffee (served from crockery that is mismatched and utterly charming) and offer to drive you the 13 miles down the road to Derek Jarman’s cottage themselves (they do a little tour, just a Saturday thing, no, no, it’s all free).