Here comes stubble - the best and worst beards

Trends in fashion sometimes arrive at odd times (summer cashmere, anyone?). And with August nearly upon us, the arrival of the beard on the faces of London's leading men could be perceived as fashionably late or just an autumn preview. Either way - and warm weather be damned - haggard and handsome is here to stay.

Blame it on the rising popularity of folk music, but the season's must-have accessory for men is a face full of retro woolly whiskers. And the must-have accessory for ladies? Why, a bearded gentleman, of course. Just ask Sienna Miller, Victoria Beckham and Jennifer Aniston (recently seen on the arm of the hirsute Justin Theroux).

Historically, the beard was worn as a disguise - a simple way for men to change their faces without resorting to wearing make-up. It's not unusual for young men to try to cultivate growth in an attempt to look older (see Aaron Johnson's bewhiskered baby face, below), to appear more masculine, to command respect or to rebel. Even the best-looking men in the world get tired of being so damn clean-cut all the time. Take Brad Pitt, who in March 2010 grew an outrageous goatee and moustache that was still making an appearance, albeit trimmed, at Cannes this year. Brad told The Sun: 'I grew the beard out of boredom. No other reason than that.'

Growing a beard is often misunderstood as a sign of laziness. But proper maintenance of facial hair often requires more care and upkeep than a daily shave. Regular trimming, combing, shampooing and an application of a conditioning rinse will do a beard like Tom Sturridge's bristly 'hobo' a lot of good. Reference the perfectly plucked and coiffed David Beckham.

But not every man can grow a proper beard. Even if he can, it doesn't mean that he should. Before deciding to grow a beard, a man must take stock of his face shape and the density of his whiskers. The key is to strike a balance between the features and the hairstyle. Men with round faces should attempt to balance the circular shape with a defined beard that has squared-off borders. Alternatively, a man with an angular or square face should choose a look with a softer style that includes curved and blended borders - but the beard itself can be trimmed to a soft point. The oval-faced should avoid any style with vertical lines such as long sideburns, a circle beard, a Fu Manchu moustache or a goatee/tash combination. If nothing else, opt for a seasonally appropriate length. Save the Dumbledore whiskers for winter. This summer calls for a more convertible - and kissable - look. ES

Nick Burns is co-author of The Bearded Gentleman: The Style Guide to Shaving Face (beardedgentleman.com)