Food Miles: Bistrotheque

I had been warned that Bistrotheque is cool. For starters, it's in a converted factory in an industrial-looking bit of East London, and its name is not displayed outside in such a way as to enable you to see it from the street. It's also not just a restaurant but a highly regarded cabaret setting. I don't know if 'highly regarded' is a phrase much valued by the cool, but there you go.

I feel nervy going anywhere cool, but fortunately I went there with a real-life, genuinely cool person. Benedict Wong, the actor, likes to pretend that he isn't. But he is. He was once nearly killed in a helicopter crash with Brad Pitt and Tony Scott. That would be a big deal in anyone's life, but Benny told me about it as if he were merely describing a neighbour asking him to help move a piano at an inopportune moment.

Upstairs a man took our coats and gave us ticket stubs, like in a nightclub. Then we were led past the open kitchens and into the great, open dining room. It is simply decorated with white walls, but given warmth by lines of hanging lamps. There is a hushed atmosphere but not in a nervy way. Rather the diners - snappily dressed with razor-sharp haircuts - are here to relax, and to savour.

'Let's have loads of starters,' announced Benny once we had finished looking at the menu. And so we did: half a dozen rock oysters, poached foie gras and a salad of trout, fennel, avocado and chipotle which was brilliantly fiery. Benny then had an onglet with chips and a Béarnaise sauce. I ordered the rabbit confit with braised fennel, tomatoes and spinach. I kept seeing and smelling fantastic-looking chips being taken to other tables, so I ordered some of them as well. They tasted as good as they looked. Everything did.

Afterwards, experiencing a post-meal glow, we went downstairs to the candlelit bar. It was quiet at first, but suddenly filled with a huge group of people who appeared to be adults and yet were carrying skateboards. I was filled with despair. But then some came over and chatted to us. They recognised Benny, and wanted to shake his hand. They were charming. It doesn't matter that Bistrotheque is cool; it's great.

Bistrotheque, 23-27 Wadeson Street, E2 (020 8983 7900; bistrotheque.com)