Food Miles

I'm not sure what confusion led to my table here being reserved in the name of 'Terence Jupp', but there was something about the confidence of the staff that made me feel I should go along with it. I myself had got confused about the dress code. I'd read that you could come here looking relaxed, but the term clearly has a different definition in Notting Hill than it does in Southeast London, where I live. I don't mean to suggest that I turned up in slippers and tracksuit bottoms, but as I crossed the floor to my table with my shirt untucked, something about the pristine nature of the place made me feel the most dreadful oik. The other diners - family groups, glamorous couples and the odd mogul -perhaps mindful of the restaurant's two Michelin stars and its new status as one of the 50 best restaurants in the world, were dressed luxuriantly. Fortunately my companion, the actor Tom Hollander, arrived looking smart enough for the both of us. He was also at ease with the wine menu, a catalogue of such rarefied wares it made my hands tremble.

Tom started with snails and I had scallop ceviche. He ordered a glass each of Grüner Veltliner and a bottle of Les Fiefs de Lagrange. He then chose suckling pig, and was brought extra crackling. I had lamb with a slice of aubergine that Tom said looked like it had been through a Corby trouser press. Without question it was the most wonderful thing I ate all evening. I don't know what they'd done to it - maybe it had been put in a press - but it tasted far better than anything needs to. I shoved a slice in Tom's direction so he could appreciate the object of my rhapsodising.

Tom told me exciting stories about Notting Hill and LA, but it was not just us doing the talking. The fine dining experience involves having everything explained to you. Each delightful amuse-bouche is accompanied by a lengthy description from its bearer. One dish was brought to us half-cooked so we could check how it was getting on. Even the wine man brought regular updates on the progress of the decanting. We ate the five strongest cheeses from the board to finish, accompanied by a half-bottle of Bandol Tempier, and then staggered out into the night air proclaiming it all to be glorious. Terence Jupp, whoever he is, would have loved it.

The Ledbury
127 Ledbury
Road, W11
(theledbury.com)