Flash in the pan

Tradition dictates that Christmas is turkey time. My dinky Parisian oven allows for little more than a quail, but I must also confess that I am not the biggest fan of turkey. And not all of us have the time or inclination to opt for this seasonal perennial, so here is my speedy version of a Christmas dinner. There’s no hanging around waiting for the turkey to cook — or forcing down the leftovers for days after the event — just a delicious dish spiked with festive juniper.

Venison with bulgar-crusted vegetable fries

Serves 4

200g butternut squash

4 baby parsnips

4 baby carrots

3 small beetroot

2 tbsp olive oil

50g bulgar wheat

Leaves from 3 sprigs thyme

½ tsp peppercorns

1 tsp sea salt

½ tsp juniper berries

3 sprigs thyme

4 x 125g venison steaks

2 tbsp olive oil

Horseradish cream, to serve

Preheat the oven to 200C/Gas Mark 6. Cut the squash in half, leaving the skin on, scoop out the seeds with a spoon and discard, then slice the squash into 1cm segments or baton shapes. Cut the parsnips and carrots in half. Peel the beetroot, cut in half and then slice into 1cm chunks. Place all the veg in a bowl, toss with the olive oil and the bulgar wheat, then season and scatter with the leaves from the thyme sprigs.

Line a large baking tray with foil and lay out the veg on the tray so they are not touching (this helps them crisp up). Roast for 40 minutes, checking after 30 minutes (you can also toss them about so that they crisp evenly).

In the meantime, using a pestle and mortar, grind the peppercorns, sea salt and juniper berries. Add the thyme.

Heat a griddle pan or frying pan. Rub the steaks with the oil and season with the spice mix. Cook for approximately 2 minutes on each side, then set aside for 2 minutes before dividing between four plates with the vegetable chips. A little horseradish cream on the side goes down a treat.