Bold brilliance: next season is all about block colours and sumptuous fabrics according to London Fashion Week

Timeless, elegant and ripe with possibilities for the 21st-century woman, Roksanda Ilincic’s autumn/winter collection took a fashion fantasy and translated it for everyday wear. Staying true to her brand’s DNA, the Serbian offered up block colour — raspberry fused with orange and liver with tangerine — and renewed focus on the waistline. Next season, the Roksanda woman fends off the chill in calf-skimming dress coats and layers fine-gauge roll-necks under jumpsuits and cut-away cocktail gowns. She is thrilled by sumptuous fabrics and has the confidence to take on colour. KD

SHAGGY COATS

House of Holland

Despite the near monsoon conditions experienced by those flitting from show to show, the biggest trend for outerwear on the catwalk (and on the front row) came via the huggably soft piles of fuzz that spanned as far as the eye could see. From curly mohair cuffs to the swathes of chevron sheepskin, as seen at House of Holland, next season’s tactile trend demands an umbrella as your must-have accessory. EM

ROYAL RED

Simone Rocha

The medieval majesty of London’s Guildhall ensured that there was more than a whiff of Wolf Hall in the air when Simone Rocha unveiled her collection on Saturday night. As did the sumptuous velvet tapestry gowns that closed the show. The result was a spectacle which saw haunting conical silhouettes fused with soft white silk for striking effect. KD

POSH PARKAS

Mary Katrantzou

The pressing matter of what to wear to keep warm on the red carpet has dominated during this week’s round of shows. Mary Katrantzou had the answer. In a collection that explored maximalism, Katrantzou brought us a spellbinding overcoat. Combining plastic filaments with a classic silhouette, this could rival any couture gown. KD

KILTS

Unique

For proof that hemlines are demure not daring next season, look to Topshop (aka the mini-skirt’s biggest cheerleader) who’s Unique line championed knee-length kilts cut from tweed and tartan wool. If further encouragement is needed to adopt the Celtic classic, seek out Samantha McCoach’s label Le Kilt, which made its LFW debut on Friday. EM

EXTRA PADDING

Hunter Original

Alasdhair Willis’s metropolitan pioneers provide inspiration for those who want to bring a breath of city life to the country and vice versa. Women from both fields can expect to embrace padded textiles this season, from quilted clutch bags that double as practical walking companions on steep Highland inclines, to trousers with duvet-day appeal. KD

PAISLEY

Burberry

A mash-up of the textile traditions of northern England and the bohemian vibes of the late Sixties inspired Christopher Bailey’s vision. This meant oversized suede ponchos, gypsy dresses and a Kate Moss-approved leopard print. A paisley pattern, reproduced on neat bombers, looked set to win the hearts of twentysomethings. KD

STATEMENT FLARES

Jonathan Saunders

Remember when life was simple and trousers were skinny? That time is over — and our wardrobes are all the better for it. Jonathan Saunders proved wearability doesn’t have to equal uniformity as he dished up statement flares with accordion-pleat inserts. A scary concept? Brace yourself: they’re coming to a workplace near you. EM

CORDS

JW Anderson

Seconds by The Human League served as soundtrack to a collection which took Eighties power-dressing as its starting point. Being Anderson, a designer intent on troubling his audience, this was no retrospective but an intentionally awkward collection in which the ugliness of the decade was revived. The result? Green cords and Lurex two-pieces. KD

ROLL NECKS

Erdem

Breaking news — roll-necks are a thing. The knitwear trend shows no signs of letting up, appearing in more shows than it was absent from. What is new is how to wear it. At Erdem floor-length crochet and marabou-trimmed gowns came finished with — you guessed it — a ribbed roll-neck. Who says wool isn’t made for ball gowns? EM