WHATLEY MANOR
Where Wiltshire's Whatley Manor was built as a decadent weekend retreat in the 1920s, and the emphasis on leisurely pleasure is still in evidence. The honey-coloured, Bath-stone buildings contain only 23 rooms, but there are 12 acres of wonderful gardens, numerous smart, wood-panelled lounges with big fireplaces, a decadent black lacquer bar and a two-Michelin-starred restaurant. As the current owners are Swiss, there is also, rather incongruously, an additional chalet-style 'stübli', Le Mazot, serving alpine specialities.
Spa USP The luxurious Aquarias Spa has hydrotherapy pools, jets and fountains galore. Guests can spend hours floating in the indoor/outdoor pool and drinking freshly made mango smoothies in the spa restaurant. Start a session by making use of the large wooden bowl of scrubbing salt in the shower area and move through the various thermal huts, including the camomile grotto (which smelt nice but wasn't hot enough) and the laconium (with heated seating). However, the Wave Dream Sensory room, with its soothing music, water feature and colourful light display, was most odd.
Décor Smart country manor crossed with Asian retreat. There's lots of marble and antique wood, and day beds everywhere, should you need a lie-down. There is also an extensive gym for working off the fondue.
Treatment Aquarias specialises in La Prairie treatments. I had the Signature Facial: 90 minutes of hot stones, head, foot and shoulder massage, and the application of endless caviar-based La Prairie creams, £138. My friend's Aroma Relax and Restore massage started with the application of hot towels, followed by a deep back massage using essential oils, £155 for 60 minutes.
Rooms from £295. Whatley Manor, Easton Gray, Malmesbury, Wiltshire (01666 822 888; whatleymanor.com). GH