Cove story: Cornwall

There is something quite wonderful and romantic about bad weather, I decided, as we pulled on our cagoules; particularly when looking at old houses swathed in white mist. Godolphin House was very recently acquired by the National Trust, and not a moment too soon. Its façade of weathered, granite columns is supported by wooden struts
and its sagging ceiling is held together by large staples. Once it was the grandest house in the region, home of the influential Godolphin family of the 16th and 17th centuries, and the site of much glamorous entertaining. With the Godolphins' passage into obscurity, the estate was turned into a farm and the house left to gentle decay. Its worn medieval stonework and mullioned windows are glorious. Even more atmospheric are the Renaissance gardens, which are reputedly the oldest in England. There were once nine square gardens, including a bowling green and an orchard, raised walks and carp ponds. What remains is overgrown, green and damp, with lichen-covered stone walls, twisted old tree trunks and tall hollyhocks.

On our way back to The Cove we took a detour to the Holy Well of St Madron, located at the end of a jungly track where the trees are hung with bits of cloutie' (rags torn from clothing by ailing devotees). A Celtic place of healing and divination, on wet days one needs to wade through a pool to reach the well itself, marked by a circle of granite slabs. We didn't have the right footwear for such an excursion, so continued up the path to the 12th-century baptistry, a small, roofless stone building with an altar and a little fountain that bubbled fiercely, its black stone basin worn smooth by the water. Places such as these – wells, grottoes and sacred groves – would have been invested with numinous significance by primitive peoples because of their ethereal atmosphere. It was believed that such isolated spots were inhabited by nymphs
and spirits, and I did get the feeling that, as we turned our backs to leave, all manner of enchanted woodland creatures emerged from their soggy hiding places.

The skies were clearing as we drove back to The Cove, stopping off at one of the wet fish shops in Newlyn where a salty old sea dog in a massive waterproof apron was selling the day's catch. We bought some freshly shucked scallops and white crab meat, which we fried with breadcrumbs and chilli and ate with pasta and prosecco on the patio, the sound of the sea a quiet hiss in the background.

The next day the sun shone, allowing a visit to Helford. More winding roads led to this pretty village set next to an ancient oak wood and perched on the edge of the Helford estuary. Here, tiny thatched cottages look out on to the river, many with their own moorings. A single street winds around the inlet, ending at Helford Point, where the foot ferry that has been running for hundreds of years takes passengers across the smooth water to Helford Passage, the village opposite. After a pint at the picturesque Ferry Boat Inn, we walked up to the cliffs and along to Durgan, a quiet village, virtually unreachable by car, which consists of about three stone dwellings, and above which are the steep gardens of Glendurgan, a fetid, exotic place overrun with rhododendrons, azaleas and tree ferns.

On our way back we dipped down to an inviting cove where we found a spot on a warm rock to sunbathe and watch the sea lap against the shingle. With the sun on our faces and the view of shimmering water, I felt like we could have been on a spring break on the Côte d'Azur. Now that's magic indeed.

WHERE TO STAY
The Cove has 16 self-catering apartments, all decked out with smart, modern furnishings. There is a pool, a restaurant serving locally sourced food, and a shop selling expensive Wellington boots. This Easter there will be a fancy-dress Easter egg hunt, children's cookery and art classes and free morning yoga classes. Rooms from £100 per night (01736 731 411; thecovecornwall.com).

GETTING THERE
Driving to deepest Cornwall from London can take anything from five to ten hours. The most civilised way to travel is by train. Paddington
to Penzance with First Great Western takes five hours and costs from £30 return (firstgreat western.co.uk).

MUST VISIT
Penlee House Gallery & Museum in Penzance has a collection of work by the Newlyn School, a group of local Victorian artists that included Stanhope Forbes and Alfred Munnings. Jill Garnier, a later student, painted Still Life with Mackerel circa 1920. Tickets £3 (penleehouse.org.uk).

ANIMAL MAGIC
The National Seal Sanctuary in the Helford estuary is a rehabilitation centre for distressed seal pups. Most are released back into the wild, but some need to be kept in captivity. Visitors can watch the resident seals, otters and penguins at feeding time. Tickets from £8 (sealsanctuary.co.uk).

WHAT TO READ
Frenchman's Creek by Daphne du Maurier tells the story of the love affair between Dona, Lady St Columb, and a dashing French pirate who has seized her Cornish estate. The action is based in and around Helford, and evokes the rugged wildness of the area beautifully (Virago Modern Classics, £7.99).

WHAT TO TAKE
It is important to feel ethereal in this part
of Cornwall. I recommend Philippa Holland's Two
Leaf Hairpiece with aquamarines for those elven moments (philippaholland.co.uk).