Castello di Vicarello, Tuscany - hotel review

Where is it?

Staring out at Tuscany's hilly Maremma countryside, Castello di Vicarello is housed in a 12th-century castle that's been transformed into a nine suite contemporary luxury hotel by the Baccheschi Berti family. The drive from Florence takes little under two hours with plenty of Tuscan landscape to keep you engaged: the medieval city of Siena is around the halfway point followed by the charming town of Paganico which is just fifteen minutes from the property.

Style

Castello di Vicarello is a labour of love, carefully restored by design-savvy couple Carlo and Aurora Baccheschi Berti who spent their time between Bali and Milan before embarking on a twelve-year journey into making it the cosy space it is.

The stone and brick walls are brought to life by contemporary artwork, leather furnishings and elaborately carved Indonesian artefacts, giving it a lived-in feel. The same homely warmth continues into all of its nine suites and two communal living rooms; personalised with a selection of vintage books and family photographs. From olive wood flooring and Italian marble bathrooms to day beds and private wine cellars, there are hints of opulence fit for a queen.

The outdoor area is a much simpler affair: muted beige sun loungers decorate both of its pools and wrought iron chairs and tables dominate the courtyard. Also dotted around are cosy Balinese huts to escape the afternoon sun.

Which room?

Surrounded by forty hectares of farmland, olive groves and vineyards, it is all about the views at Castello di Vicarello. There isn't a bad room on offer so regardless of whether you are in Suite Vicario, where the general of the castle once resided, or in the more exclusive Suite Torre, you are guaranteed jaw-dropping greenery as far as the eye can see.

Couples looking to indulge can opt for Suite The Spa with all the trimmings: a steam room, sauna, and an outdoor jacuzzi with uninterrupted views of the Mediterranean coastline. The floor-to-ceiling windows look out across the Ombrone valley, bringing the outdoors in.

Food & Drink

The hotel has adopted a farm to table philosophy with all of its ingredients either grown on-site or sourced locally. In amongst the olive groves are patches of vegetable and herb plantations and a short walk away is a hen house for daily supply of eggs. At the heart of the castle is its 900-year-old, fully-functional, family kitchen used to prepare breakfast each morning. With its impressive arched ceiling and a hidden pantry, this room is certainly a sight to behold.

Hopeless romantics need to wait until dinner for the big reveal when the terrace, capturing 360-degree views of Maremma, is transformed into a restaurant with candle-lit tables. Pace your way through a set menu comprising of two to four courses celebrating the family's Italian heritage. Spaghetti with truffle shavings is a must-try (when on the menu) as is the wild boar with tomato jelly. Pair the dishes with Castillo di Vicarello's award-winning selection of wines, lovingly crafted by two generations of the Baccheschi Berti family using organically grown grapes. Catch the sunset and socialise over an aperitivo at half six.

Activities

Chances are you'll want to swim in the infinity pool all day, but should you fancy doing something else there is plenty on offer. Immerse yourself in the landscape with a hike that takes you through rivers and vineyards or explore the hills on horseback or a bike. The dreamy backdrop is ideal for al-fresco spa treatments, private yoga and meditation sessions. In-room treatments can be booked upon request.

Discover the distinct flavours of Tuscany and its age-old secrets from Aurora Baccheschi Berti, author My Tuscan Kitchen, in a cooking class which will have you master dishes like papa al pomodoro, ravioli maremmani and tiramisu. If drinks are more your bag, go wine tasting. The hour-long session hosted by Carlo and his eldest son Brando will have you sample the finest grapes grown and harvested on the property. Learn all about the composition and complexity of the vines occupying seven hectares of the estate.

Lovers of astronomy should keep their telescopes at the ready to stargaze the night away.

Best for

Couples and honeymooners looking for refined luxury.

How to get there

Fly direct from London Heathrow to Pisa with British Airways. Castello di Vicarello is two and a half away by car. If you're planning on making the journey via Florence, the drive is just under two hours.