Introducing the new Brighton...

Brighton (now technically Brighton and Hove) is enjoying its new city status. There's a buzz about the place, and the refurbishment of the seafront has brought in many new bars and cafes.

Visitors Matt Porteus and Paula Traynor from Bromley are down for the day. They sum up the new sex appeal: "It looks like a nice old seafront town," says Paula, "but it's incredibly lively underneath."

Takimori Ito and Hirami Yasimura from Tokyo agree. "It's a really open-minded town," says Hirami. "It's more relaxed than anywhere else in Britain."

So what are you waiting for?

ON THE BEACH

Day trippers favour the stretch of shingle between the Palace and West Piers. Half a mile to the east lies Brighton's famous nudist beach, now mostly gay. Females in search of topless tanning should head west towards Hove, where the town's many language students sun themselves. A new storm drainage system has improved the quality of the water, but Brighton is still without a coveted EC Blue Flag. Prices this year: deckchairs £1.25 a day, windsurfing at Hove Lagoon £15 an hour.

WHAT'S EVERYBODY READING?

The Cheeky Guide to Brighton, White Teeth, Attitude.

BEST PUBS/BEACH BARS

The beach front between the piers has many excellent bars. Two of the best are the Boardwalk, next to the Palace Pier (pan-fried chicken salad £5.90, excellent baguettes from £4.20), and the Gemini, with waitress service and live music on its large terrace. The Prodigal (East Street) is a fashionable modern bar with good sounds and a light, airy feel, with a darker, more intimate back room. In the Lanes, the Cricketers is one of Brighton's oldest pubs, all red velvet and Edwardian bric-a-brac.

CLUBS 2001

The Zap (King's Road Arches) is Brighton's best-known. Fridays (gay-friendly) and Saturdays (garage and slinky house), £10-£12, 10pm-4am.

Others worth checking out are Concorde II, Madeira Drive, The Escape, Marine Parade, Ocean Rooms, Morley Street, Funky Buddha Lounge, seafront. Best gay clubs are Revenge, Old Steine, £5-£8 admission, open till 2am; Pool, above Charles Street bar, Marine Parade. £1-£5.

The Komedia, Gardner Street, has alternative cabaret and an excellent bar-restaurant. For listings read The Latest (weekly) or The Source (monthly).

WHERE TO GO IF YOU'RE...

Bored with the beach: The Royal Pavilion, the Prince Regent's ersatz oriental extravaganza, £5.20. The Palace Pier for fairground rides, amusement arcades, karaoke bars and fortune tellers: free admission and deckchairs. Brighton Sealife Centre: underwater tunnels with sharks and stingrays, £6.25. The electric Volks Railway, which runs from near the pier along to Black Rock (£1.20 single). On an open-top bus tour, £6.50, or boat tour from Brighton marina from £4.50. The Lanes, picturesque antiques area; or North Lane area near the station for body-piercing and fetish wear.

Take a hike on the South Downs. No 77 buses to Devil's Dyke, a local beauty spot, leave hourly from the Clock Tower (£3 return). Or a guided tour of the Victorian sewers (01903 272648), £5.

Suffering: Boots.

Falling in love: Wheelers restaurant for oysters (01273 325135) in the Lanes.

WAYS TO GO

Connex South Central five-day return from Victoria £19.60, day returns from £14.80. Accommodation: two-night Leisure Break Special at The Grand Hotel, King's Road (01273 224300), from £190 B&B per room, or £220 including dinner. The Dove, 18 Regency Square (01273 779222), a townhouse hotel, from £69 B&B. Hotel Pelirocco, 10 Regency Square (01273 327055), from £70 B&B.

Hotels are bookable through Brighton and Hove Visitor Information Centre, Bartholomew Square, Mon-Fri (0906 7112255, 50p per minute); Brochure hotline 08457 573512.