Inside guide to the Amalfi coast

Where to go and what to see in one of Italy's most beautiful areas....

PICNIC: The rocky Amalfi coast has few beaches, and most come with towns. A magnificent exception is the Baia di Ieranto, a crook in the coast just before Punta Campanella. Accessible by foot from Nerano village or boat from Marina di Cantone, the deserted beach has a white sweep of sand protected by Italy's National Trust. Bars at either departure point provide rolls and drinks.

STROLL: Villages are connected by a network of footpaths - one of the best goes from Scala (buses from Amalfi), a charmingly decrepit hill town across the Dragone valley from Ravello. From here, pass vineyards and lemon groves to the hamlet of Minuta, where the church of the Annunziata (ask around for the key) has Byzantine frescoes. From the square outside, a path descends to Amalfi via the village of Pontone.

PHOTO-OP: Nothing matches the view from the terrace of Villa Cimbrone in Ravello. Built by Ernest Beckett (later Lord Grimthorpe) in the first years of the last century, it is a modern retro jewel studded with antique details - twisted Byzantine columns and Gothic window frames. The gardens steal the show.

SUNDOWNER: Have a drink on the terrace of the Hotel San Pietro, one of Italy's most luxurious kips - rooms carved into rock over a series of terraces on a headland. A lift descends through solid rock to a lobby with bright Vietri tiles. The terrace outside is dominated by a silk floss tree that flowers in September - one of the best months to visit the Costiera Amalfitana. Sip a dry martini and enjoy the view.

DINNER: The port of Cetara is effortlessly romantic and has one of the area's best-value restaurants, Acqua Pazza (089 261606, closed Mon). The menu (e70 for two) depends on what the boat brought in, but cooking is razor-sharp. Try potato-flour spaghetti with prawns, mantis shrimps and bottarga (mullet roe), or local speciality linguine with anchovy sauce. Add a bottle of the Amalfi coast's best wine - Furore bianco.