But that is Dartford's claim to history and fame. York or Chester it is not. "Well, it's got more shops than Crayford," said Mrs Mackrill defensively. Er, hardly. While Bluewater - Europe's largest shopping centre - is located a couple of miles outside the town, Dartford itself has depressingly few shops that would be recognised anywhere outside Dartford. It has jewellers, hairdressers, charity shops and pawnbrokers. It has Fani's Sandwiches, Fat Sam's Eatery and Russells fish and chips. It has a B&Q and an MFI, Boots and the Co-op.