The next big things...

At the end of a quiet London Fashion Week, those with the inside track in the industry offer their reflections. So which designers will Liberty be snapping up, what do the editors at The Face and The Guardian think of it all and who really will be designing our wardrobes for Autumn 2004?

The Mood

Jonathan Heaf, associate editor, Face: Everyone hopes to see something inspiring but I don't know whether we got much of that. Giles Deacon picked things up; he was a new name to get excited about.

Maggie Davis, deputy consume editor, Time Out: It's been subdued but there've been some good off-schedule shows. Giles Deacon was a real success. So although people have been negative, there have been unexpected bursts of creativity.

Jason Leung, stylist, Guardian: A bit subdued but, generally, the standard at London Fashion Week has been very good.

Chloe Constantinidi, Re:Creation Fashion Award winner: It's been reflective, a bit softer than previous years.

Anna-Marie Crowhurst, fashion features editor, Sleaze: People seem to think it's been dull and disappointing and that London's not as exciting as Paris or Milan.

Best On-Schedule Show:

Jonathan Heaf: Julie Verhoeven, just because last year she didn't live up to expectations. The thing Julie does best is illustration and prints - she's got such a lovely sketching hand - and she went back to that this season.

Helen Jennings, stylist, Oyster and Metro: Gharani Strok. It was professional and glamorous, which is what London Fashion Week needs.

Maggie Davis: Tricky, really, because nothing blew me away. However, I did like House of Jazz. It was more glamorous than usual, quite Chanel.

Jason Leung: Clements Ribeiro. I liked the variety, the way they've gone back to their old style with lots of ideas. It was more edgy, less commercial.

Chloe Constantinidi: I did enjoy the 1970s folk mood of Eley Kishimoto.

Anna-Marie Crowhurst: Julie Verhoeven, just because that seemed to be the most creative and imaginative. She had these giant theatrical hats - like huge artists berets and Tam O'Shanters - and the best soundtrack, old 1970s soul.

Best off-schedule show

Olivia Richardson, womenswear buyer, Liberty: Bora Aksu was great. We stock the collection at Liberty so I was excited to see what we could look forward to. Everything was intricately detailed, beautifully tailored - and such sumptuous fabrics, lots of leather and knitwear. It's great to be able to stock a line that has such a handcrafted element.

Jonathan Heaf: Giles Deacon. It had that buzz about it because he used to work at Gucci and he knows Katie Grand. People get a bit cynical about that kind of thing, but I loved it.

Helen Jennings: Ashish. It was fun, full of sequins and lovely puff skirts.

Maggie Davis: Ashish. His small show was beautiful, really optimistic. A lot of the colours have been really subdued, quite pared down, but Ashish had bright primary colours with sequins on little jackets and 1950s skirts. Jason Leung: Antonio Ciutto. Great clashing prints and colour.

Anna-Marie Crowhurst: Karen Walker. The clothes were wearable, very 1970s with lovely colours, similar to Marc by Marc Jacobs.

Best Autumn/Winter Trend

Olivia Richardson: Tweed. It's such a classic winter fabric and can look really sexy when it's beautifully cut. Liberty has produced its own line of Harris tweed coats - I'll definitely be buying one of those before they sell out! I'm a big knitwear fan too, and I've seen some fab chunky knits. Jonathan Heaf: I liked the upside-down sweatshirt at FrostFrench.

Helen Jennings: Oversized satin bomber jackets as dresses.

Fiona Harkin, associate editor, WGSN: The waistline is back so anything that accentuates that cinched-in look is a must, from belted jackets to hip-hugging pencil skirts and feminine blouses with strong shoulders and capped sleeves.

Jason Leung: The 1970s look, with the big voluminous sleeves and belted dresses.

Maggie Davis: The 1970s is a big trend: lots of diaphanous chiffony and silk dresses. Also lots of pretty shift dresses in old-fashioned 1940s-inspired floral prints.

Anna-Marie Crowhurst: Extra skinny cigarette pants worn with skyscraper heels.

Designers to watch

Olivia Richardson: That would be telling. There's definitely a few specific ones that I've been making notes on, but you'll have to wait for the collections to hit the Liberty shop floor.

Helen Jennings: Maybe Weardowney. It was their first show this time. It was slightly overacted: the models were asked to eat cake and pretend to cry. But it was fun, with crochet and big knickers.

Maggie Davis: Giles Deacon is the name of the season but Sophia Kokosalaki is still hot.

Jason Leung: Jonathan Saunders - but I'll reserve judgement until I see the show. Designers such as Jonathan Saunders and Shami Senthi are print specialists, not designers, and they've got to get a designer to work with them to produce great garments. The problem is, they believe the hype. Hopefully, Jonathan won't let his ego get in the way.

Anna-Marie Crowhurst: Richard Nicolls at Fashion East. He did these lovely silk dresses, very Barbarella; really well cut, elegant but young.