The great Ascot cover up

Of all the years that one would expect Royal Ascot to look like a scene from EastEnders' Martin 'n' Sonya Fowler's wedding, this was it. Even on the chilliest June day, Ascot attendees generally need no encouragement in exposing their shoulders, legs and cleavages to the world. Yet here we were, in heat so broiling that you could fry an egg on the pavement, and what was the dress code of choice? A suit.

I had predicted that jackets would make a return to the racecourse. With designers offering so many delicious options this summer, the frumpy jacket has been reborn as modern again. But the suits were a bit of a surprise. It was 27 degrees in the shade.

Winners this year included Moschino's bracelet-sleeved version (cut low at the neck as a concession to summer), Chanel's wool bouclé in palest pink (extra points for a matching handbag) and - a new entry to the Ascot fashion sweepstakes - some beautifully tailored Alexander McQueen. It is a mark of how high McQueen's stock has risen among the social set that he is now a fixture at Ascot.

Pastel shades were the order of the day, with candyfloss, apricot, lilac and cream firm favourites, along with the odd twist of lemon. Ascot's usual staples - fuchsia and turquoise - were few and far between, and although black wasn't entirely absent, most women had allowed the sun to lift their mood.

Hat-wise, it was good to see a return to wide brims after a couple of years of messy head pieces. Suits are better set off with a more formal hat and, as usual, Philip Treacy cleaned up. There was also a resurgence of the status handbag: top-of-the-range Chanels, Fendis and Louis Vuittons were in abundance-with most bags deliberately mismatching the wearer's outfit.

Even those race-goers who didn't wear suits chose dresses that were quite demure. Spaghetti-strap chiffon slips were a rarity, replaced by more structured dresses with wide skirts and a Fifties feel. When flesh was bared, it was the odd flash of stomach rather than cleavage that predominated.

After making such an effort with their outfits, it must have been a shock to be confronted with public conveniences that would make Glastonbury look glitzy. The loo I queued for (and here's where the glamour fades) was one of two, and had loo roll stuffed in a hole in the door that still hadn't been mended since last year. To wait 20 minutes in a toilet queue soon takes the "special" out of any occasion: let's hope Ascot's refurbishment sees some long-overdue improvements. Next June, York will play host to the event, as the royal racecourse gets a makeover that befits its clientele.