Stellar Saunders is a cut above

For his prints alone, Jonathan Saunders deserves a place in fashion's hall of fame. But last night, the cut of his clothes finally reached the same stellar standard as his print work, with cut and colour coming together in stunning artistry.

Artistry being the right word, for Saunders's latest collection was inspired by the Memphis design movement and in particular, the work of Helio Oiticica, a Brazilian artist whose work is currently being exhibited at the Tate. But it was to the Barbican for Saunders's spring 2008 show, which continued the designer's passion for clean, uncluttered lines and unusual marriages of colour.

Almost all of the fabrics were bespoke, hand-printed so that the form of a dress was complemented perfectly by the print appearing on it. Amid Saunders's trademark blacks, whites and greys came softer pastel colours such as sherbert lemon, candyfloss pink and baby blue. Dresses were mostly sleeveless, with plain, straight bodices erupting into box-pleated skirts. Some were short, sharp and tunic-style, given volume by the addition of a cropped bolero, a capelet or a chiffon sash draped across the body. Some were cinched by wide belts, others had a sporty feel, courtesy of intarsia details on their shoulders and sides. One drop-waisted flapper dress was Twenties in style, but made modern by the cutting-edge printing techniques, and the fact that it came in a monochrome colour scheme of black, white and gradated grey. The shoes, by Christian Louboutin, included cropped multi-coloured ankle boots decorated with fringing.

This was not a collection much dedicated to trousers, though when they did appear, they were black and tapered, with leather piping across the back pocket. But dresses were the main focus: for evening, a black and white panelled column dress brightened with sherbet lemon edging along the hem. In the overcrowded market for evening dresses, Saunders certainly has something new to offer: not the flounce and frill that is traditional red carpet fare, but the spare, clean lines of a designer whose outlook is thoroughly modern.

Accessories were beautifully thought out to complement the clothes, from the chunky bangles made from hand-blown glass to the teeny-tiny vanity cases and evening bags that wouldn't fit much more than a lipstick. Small, perhaps, but perfectly formed - just like this standout collection.