Saab's chiffon shivers

Backless evening gowns and frontless cocktail dresses in the lightest, goose pimpleinducing chiffon were the order of the day at Elie Saab's haute couture presentation in Paris.

It was supposed to be a collection for autumn/winter 2004, but you wouldn't know it from the clothes.

True, Saab did think to include a coat - full-length shearling with voluptuous hood - but the other 60 outfits were strictly St Tropez. Since Saab's customers travel everywhere by limo, a coat would seem to be superfluous.

Besides, you don't go to Saab for winter warmers. You go for eveningwear so sumptuous it is fit for an Oscar queen - Halle Berry picked up her Best Actress award wearing one of Saab's creations.

Lebanese-born Saab has been in business for 20 years, but it took Berry to make him a household name. Liz Hurley and Calista Flockhart are also fans of his gossamerlight gowns which, with their skimpy, sexy proportions, make perfect red carpet wear. Saab draws heavily on his own culture. Almost every dress came in chiffon, some embellished with gold coins or worn with gold filigree belts and bangles.

It came patchworked, draped and embroidered, in faded leopard or rose print, worn slashed to the thigh or in a dramatic fishtail.

He also likes a long, flowing Guinevere sleeve and an elegant train.

In a colour palette of burnished golds, silvers and bronzes, with occasional flashes of vivid turquoise, Saab proved he knows his market. Sexier dresses would be hard to find.

And while it is traditional to end with a wedding dress, Saab went four better, ending with five. Prospective brides can take their pick from sky blue, beige, pink, cream or white - all guaranteed to have the groom's pulse racing.