Russians' ring of steel and a snub from Putin

A ring of steel was thrown up around Moscow's Luzhniki Stadium today ahead of the Champions League final.

But with thousands of police and soldiers joining 50,000 Manchester United and Chelsea fans converging on the stadium, there were two notable absences.

In an apparent snub to Britain, it emerged that neither Russian president Dmitry Medvedev or prime minister Vladimir Putin will be at the match.

One Russian politician who will be there is Andrei Lugovoi, Britain's prime suspect in the poisoning of exile Alexander Litvinenko in London. The former spy, now an MP, will be sitting in the stadium's VIP area tonight.

Moscow was enduring traffic chaos as sections of motorway were blocked off to allow officials easy access to the game. Police in long grey coats swarmed around the metro station which will bring most fans to the game, with sniffer dogs on view.

Fans travelling by taxi had to get out at least a mile from the ground and walk down between embankments to get near it. Shops selling beer were closed as the authorities sought to prevent violence. It is understood some 6,000 police and other militia have been deployed as Muscovites braced themselves for what one newspaper called "the biggest invasion since Napoleon".

But there was a good-natured atmosphere in Red Square. Supporters gathered in front of St Basil's Cathedral and the Kremlin after a fleet of chartered planes flew in an estimated 50,000.

They poured through Gatwick and Stansted and private jets were bringing in others from around the world. Chelsea and Manchester United have sold out of their allocation of 21,000 tickets each.

There was little sign fans had made the journey without tickets. Many were put off by the high cost of hotels and flights. One tout who had 20 tickets was unable to shift a single one. The tout, who had travelled from Spain, said: "It's a disaster. Nobody is coming without a ticket." There were unconfirmed reports that 5,000 fake tickets were on sale.

Fans in Red Square praised Russian authorities. Kate Stewart, 55, an IT manager and Chelsea fan, said: "It's fantastic. They really care about hosting the event and where it leaves them on the world stage."

At Gatwick, Chelsea fan Richard Counihan, 46, a businessman based in Seattle, said: "I left the US yesterday at 9am and I haven't slept. The fun and excitement and adrenalin are keeping me awake."

"Fan zones", which can accommodate up to 5,000 each, have been set up next to the stadium. Supporters are being encouraged to stay in them for up to 10 hours ahead of kick-off to avoid trouble. Blue carpet has been spread out, temporary lavatory blocks have been put up and bars were open - soft drinks only.

Portraits of Russian heroes, including poet Alexander Pushkin, have been touched up to include Chelsea scarfs wrapped around their necks.

A government spokesman confirmed Mr Putin and Mr Medvedev would skip the match.

Previously it was thought " soccermad" Mr Medvedev would attend, as Moscow is hoping to stage the 2018 Olympics. No official reasons were given for their non-attendance.

Relations between Britain and Russia were damaged by the diplomatic row following Mr Litvinenko's death in 2006 from radioactive polonium-210 poisoning and Russia's refusal to extradite Lugovoi. One Western diplomat said: "What can one think other than this is a snub?"