Rockabilly rebels

John Galliano doesn't follow trends - he sends them up instead. While the rest of the fashion world is awash with sweet fifties references such as twinsets and pearls, Galliano prefers to focus on the decade's quirkier side - like Teddy Boys, bordello babes and Elvis.

Not that these were ordinary Teds. After all, this was a Christian Dior show, and everything at Christian Dior comes larger than life. Galliano's rockabilly rebels wore brothelcreepers with three-inch crepe soles, oversized lame jackets with fur lapels up to their ears and baggy trousers with more straps than a tube carriage. Gisele Bundchen was barely recognisable under her cute little Kewpie-doll mouth and outlandish eyeshadow.

To the untrained eye, this latest show for Dior looked like the work of a lunatic, not that of the most lauded designer in Paris. The vibrant colours - lime green, acid yellow and shocking pink - aren't exactly easy to wear, and with every jacket so exaggeratedly huge, this was hardly a collection of wardrobe staples.

But Galliano is far from a lunatic: since joining Dior in 1996, he has more than quadrupled profits. With fashion houses like Gucci and Givenchy desperately seeking new names to boost their brand desirability, Galliano's eight-year tenure at Dior looks settled in comparison. His job one of the most solid in the business.

Look behind the theatrics and there were some wearable clothes. Uncharacteristically, all the volume was in the daywear, with the eveningwear sylph-like in comparison. A cocktail dress in lime green devore velvet burnt to look like snakeskin was particularly impressive. True, there may have been too much leopard print for your average shopper, but Dior's moneyed clients are anything but average, and they like their clothing loud.

Of course, it is the bags which will really set the tills a-ringing, and for autumn 2004 the Dior tote comes shaped like a bowling bag, in a cacophony of colours, with gilt-chain handles accessorised with a pair of giant dice. It's safe to predict they will be a roaring success.