Right here, right now

London is cooler than ever - a vibrant, world-leading city of unrivalled arts and entertainment. That is the verdict of backpackers' bible the Lonely Planet, which declares it: "The place to be right now."

As well as the traditional London - of Harrods, the Ritz and Buckingham Palace - the city now boasts "a tapestry of different cultures, unparalleled in complexity and colour".

Only two years ago the same guide described London as a joyless, decaying place where the locals are more likely to attack you than extend a welcome. But its newest edition says it is now "on the crest of a wave and only looking forward", boasting "magnificent historical architecture" and "some of the world's greatest museums and art galleries".

Even the food has improved, with eating out in London "as diverse, stylish and satisfying as anywhere else on the planet these days". J Sheekey, Lindsay House and Sketch are among the restaurants listed. But the guide advises: "If the service wasn't up to scratch, just refuse to pay the service charge."

Not surprisingly, transport is branded "the biggest bugbear for Londoners and the challenge Mayor Ken Livingstone is most keen to face". Another concern is the city's litterbugs. The Lonely Planet says: "It's galling to see people, possibly the majority, casually chuck rubbish out of car windows ... get with it, London!"

But the guide's verdict is unmistakably positive: "London is not a place you can ever 'do'; it's evolving too quickly even for its occupants to fully grasp."

The Lonely Planet guide to London is published in March.