Paris mourns death of St Michael

Suddenly everyone in Paris wants baked beans, marmalade and muffins. Demand for these quintessentially British goods has soared since Marks & Spencer announced it was pulling out of continental Europe.

Turnover at the flagship Parisian branch, on Boulevard Haussmann, has doubled, up to £360,000 daily. And the explosion of interest is not just confined to Paris. French newspaper Le Parisian reports: "Stores across Europe have seen their turnover explode."

France in particular, it seems, is in mourning for the troubled British institution. Books of condolence have even been opened up following public demand.

Eric Paillard, deputy manager at the Haussmann store, the first M&S to open in France, said: "Thirty books have been filled so far and there are eight more being signed in the store right now.

"Customers asked for them to be provided after sending emails and letters. They also have made inquiries about pressure groups to help save the stores." Shocked staff have even organised a demonstration tomorrow in front of the Haussmann store, and customers have been invited to show their anger at the closures.

The axe is scheduled to fall on 31 December, but stores expect sales to remain at fever pitch until then.

In branches across France the message is: "Shop until the shutters drop." As a result, M&S outlets are besieged by frantic shoppers. "There are no trolleys left," lament customers in their haste to set off round the aisles.

Veronique Limousin, shop steward at the Haussmann store, said: "You'd think it was sale time. It gives us an incredible amount of work. It's a bitter irony for the staff here, and we have said we will not be communicating sales figures during this busy period out of respect to staff."

Parisians have taken M&S to their hearts. Arlette Feneux, a retired employee of the Bank of France signing the condolence book, said: "This isn't America, you just can't close down stores without consultation. It's completely foolish and ridiculous to shut this shop in Paris, which is always full." The store is a particular favourite with busy mothers. Anne Pralus, an infant school teacher, said: "I always come here for the food. I am especially a fan of muffins and I often lunch on their sandwiches."

Another teacher, Marie Odile Gerard, said she was attracted by M&S food specialties. She added: "I come here to buy good-value Australian wine. I also pick up toiletries, baby lotion and deodorant. I also like the cakes, particularly the Bakewell tarts." And of course, she is a fan of one of the chain's staples. "I don't buy most of my clothes here - but I come here for lingerie."

The store is also an essential stop-off for visiting and ex-pat Britons. Kim Johnson, who works for Eurostar, said: "It's a godsend for something quick, as caf?s can get expensive. Plus it's healthy."

Ceri Walbran added: "Marks & Spencer is a lifeline for Brits in Paris, particularly for Cheddar cheese, hot cross buns, Indian food and decent biscuits."

Marks & Spencer has taken its drastic action against the backdrop of a dismal bottom line. The M&S France group has seen turnover drop from £194 million in 1997 to £169 million last year.

However, the emotion felt across the country is intense - and nowhere more so than in Marseilles.

Staff have asked to wear black armbands, and Christiane Thiers - a union official at Marseilles M&S, said: "We must show that we are unhappy. It is as if we're dying. So we are going to dress in mourning."