New world wines take over

French wine is fast being driven out of British shopping baskets by the unstoppable march of New World labels.

A league table of best-selling wines shows that no single French - or indeed European - brand makes the top 10 for the first time. The line-up is now entirely Australian, Californian and South African.

The table, in this week's Marketing magazine, completes a revolution that began when Australia's Jacob's Creek appeared in British off-licences just over a decade ago. In the Eighties, Blue Nun and Matheus Rose were served without a trace of irony and Australian wines were the butt of jokes.

As recently as 1988 the top-selling wine in Britain was a cheap French brand known for its slogan "The French adore Le Piat d'Or". The highest-placed New World wine at the time - in 20th - was California's Paul Masson, a dinner party favourite in a vase-shaped bottle with screw-top lid.

But this year Australia has overtaken France as the biggest exporter of wines to Britain. It also boasts the UK's second-bestselling brand, Jacob's Creek. The number-one and number-three sellers are the Californian Blossom Hill and Ernest & Julio Gallo.

The shift in the balance of power has triggered a crisis of confidence in France's vineyards, which are also suffering plunging demand in their home market. Meanwhile, the UK has become one of the world's fastest growing markets, with wine sales here rising 17 per cent last year.

Quentin Rappoport, director of the Wine and Spirit Association, said New World producers had won a reputation for "modestly priced wines and reliable quality. The consistent standard of Australian wine for the price has been extraordinary". He added: "With French wines you are probably all right if you buy Chateau Mouton Rothschild, but there is an awful lot of very variable stuff around. If people just want something with dinner they usually play safe and New World tends to be very safe indeed."

The Australians had a strong marketing strategy based on grape varieties - such as chardonnay or merlot - not confusing geographical regions, said Mr Rappoport.

New World producers have also targeted younger wine drinkers.

Jacob's Creek sponsored TV sitcom Friends, and California's Blossom Hill tied in sitcom Will & Grace.

Paul Henry, director of the Australian Wine Bureau in London, said antipodean producers promoted wines as fun and accessible.

"We have democratised wine," he said. "We take the view that it is a serious business until the cork goes into the bottle. From then on it is about fun, conviviality, sharing."

Britain's other favourite tastes are revealed in another Marketing magazine survey, listing the top 50 "superbrands" in Britain. Top of the table, compiled by market research company TNS, is the Walkers range of snacks and crisps.

Its sales rose 12 per cent last year to about £535 million, and 86.5 per cent of households consumed its products. Second was Birds Eye, with sales of £520million. Third was cereal brand Kellogg's, with sales of £500million.