Monaco, Valence, Paris, Saarland, Cologne ... Mr Hayler's top five

Dish: the Louis XV croustillant, a hazelnut biscuit covered with dark chocolate.

The Hayler verdict: "It sounds ordinary, but wait until you taste the chocolate, which has so smooth a surface it appears solid, yet is still soft and has an intensity of taste that makes me salivate just typing this."

Pic, in Valence, France

Crayfish tails gratinated with summer truffle inside, centre containing an extract of lobster, cream and melted cheese.

"Seasoned perfectly and the crayfish was wonderfully tender, the truffle adding a little extra note."

Ledoyen, in Paris

Millefeuille of grapefruit, two layers of grapefruit segments sandwiching a grapefruit sorbet, the layers separated by fine tuiles and resting on orange jelly.

"This had wonderful freshness and was also rather original."

Schloss Berg, in Saarland, Germany

Ganache of bitter chocolate with ragout of cherries, a sherbet of cherries, a kirsch bonbon and little cubes of cherry.

"Presentation was exquisite, as was taste."

Vendôme, near Cologne

Pannacotta of goose liver with green apple jelly topped with a Parmesan foam.

"The conception harmonious, acidity of the apple jelly balancing richness of the liver, Parmesan lightened by being in foam form."