Milan's bold bohemian rhapsodies

Okay, so we all know what the celebrities wore on Oscar night. Time to move on now, please. Without the benefit of stylists, make-up artists and a coterie of primpers, the rest of us have to figure out how we're going to look fabulous not just for a night, but for the next six months. That's why the Milan collections are so important. This is the city where trends are consolidated; where the British high street looks for its bargain-bucket inspiration.

There is Miuccia Prada, and there is everyone else. She is an iPod among Walkmans, and her influence is incredible - not only on the high street but among her peers. Every coat worn open with a belt, every cardigan fastened skewered with a brooch, all came first from Prada.

"Bohemian eccentric" was Milan's most prevalent trend, and Prada did it best, with a romantic, mysterious collection embellished with jewels and sparkle. Her less expensive line, Miu Miu, was equally delicious: richly textured and in colours like a crackling fire.

Dolce & Gabbana also had an exceptional show. I've always loved their tailoring and been ambivalent about their disco dresses, and this collection focused on tuxedos and two-pieces, mixing masculine and feminine traits like a pinstripe suit with a pink lace waistcoat. At Pucci, the tailoring was also a highlight: we all know Lacroix can do ethereal chiffon, but seeing those Pucci prints overlaid on grey tweeds was much more exciting.

Burberry had an excellent show, with Christopher Bailey sending out new coat shapes in addition to the trench, like a tiered suede maxi-coat in bottle green. Bottega Veneta branched out from bags to stage a static womenswear presentation, using its trademark woven leather as a criss-cross motif on Twenties-inspired

clothes. Marni was more sombre than usual, Jil Sander more upbeat and Alberta Ferretti gloriously colourful.

With our reputation for sartorial eccentricity, we Brits should find next autumn's trends particularly suited to our psyche. Let the dressedup madness begin.

Trends for autumn 2004: tweed, herringbone, sparkly knits, tank tops, calf-length skirts, wide lapels, Heidi pigtails, cropped trousers, Miss Marple suits, shrunken leather, abstract prints, bracelet sleeves, chiffon, semi-transparent dresses, pussy bows, metallics, Lurex, fur.

Colours: bottle green, grass green, grape, burnt orange, brown, navy, yellow.

Accessories: brooches, floorsweeping scarves, brocade, corsages, cossack hats, woolly beanies, tippets, arm warmers, wooden stack heels, decorative belts, peep-toed sandals, big bags.